Could you be losing compression via injector seals or poor valve seats or stem seals.

Bleed the clutch slave cylinder. place a drip tray on floor under slave cylinder, then slacken off bleed nipple (just slacken it off do not open it) then put a piece of pipe on the bleed nipple that reaches up to the top of inner wing and into a container, remove the clutch fluid reservoir top...

Brute force and a heavy hammer looks to be the order of the day.

Unlike normal lamps LED lamps only work if fitted the correct way round, maybe it is a case of just turning to the correct polarity

First thing I would do is bleed the clutch slave cylinder and see if there is any improvement. Did that to mine the other day after difficulty changing gears and back to normal now. I bled it until all the fluid had been replaced.

Bike racks on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154307209515

Has your Cat been removed, I replaced mine after getting really smelly exhaust and its now sweet as a nut again. I also replaced the EGR, removing it made no difference to economy or performance.

This is interesting re slave cylinder push rods. Also gives sizes.

Did you renew the spark plugs,

Many years ago on an old car I had the same symptoms and rough idle cutting out but started up when cold, eventually not start at all, it turned out to be the coil.

Its nearly always the passenger side actuator that stops working, usually in winter especially if the car is not being used as much, a good squirt of WD40 usually frees it off. I had to do this every winter, but I now preempt the situation and give it a good squirt before winter sets in. I also...

Considering the time it takes to remove the gearbox and refit with new clutch I think the price is not unreasonable at all.

The TD5 thermostat is not fixed to the engine block it is a Y piece unit in the radiator hoses, remove the radiator cowl for access and three jubilee clips the change the thermostat, easy job, even easier if fan removed but doable without. Special tools required to remove fan. Make sure you use...

4th click is very good,

The only time I have had spurious alarms was due to the under bonnet switch on the bulkhead not being straight and triggering the alarm, straightening the switch so the bonnet meets it and disarm's it sorted it out, the rubber gaiter was split allowing the switch arm to go off centre, I used...

Manual gearbox will not have a gearbox temperature warning. They were for the auto box version. Has the landy been converted or instrument cluster changed.

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Push the A pillar trim back down so the black lines up with the scuttle panel and replace the missing piece at the top. Seriously though this must be a common problem as there are loads for sale on e-bay.

Fuel leak at filter head unit turned out to be corrosion that had eaten away the edge of the return pipe connection point so copper sealing washer was not sealing, two of the others were also corroded and it would have only been a short time before they leaked, then to cap it off the fuel pump...

After 20 years I had to replace a headlight bulb for the first time, one week later the other side went out in sympathy so changed that too, I wonder if these will last as long. Next job is to fix a fuel leak at one of the filter connections