Sounds like the outlet from the oil cooler - on a later TD5 it goes to the EGR cooler so if that's gone then it's useless which is presumably why it's blanked off. Just replace the rubber pipe and bolt combo with a 19mm silicone blank.

This is correct, it won't engage the compressor if the pressure is too low. Most common point is the pipe that runs by the headlight with the arrow on this picture: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/discovery-2-air-conditioning.113651/post-1179629

It's fine, the black wire isn't needed as the switch earths through its body.

If you don't drain it first, it'll all drop into the first cylinder when you remove the first injector. Disconnecting the fuel lines from the FPR is indeed the way to drain it out of the head - it's even what's in the LR workshop manual. It's worked when fuel stops coming out of the connections...

On the later TD5s it feeds the EGR cooler, so if that's been removed or blanked it doesn't do anything. On earlier TD5s from it went to an inlet on the radiator, but LR brought out an updated radiator design where that inlet was blanked off.

Which Discovery do you have? Propshaft bearing sounds like D3/4, the rubber donut mentioned above is D1/2.

Yeah it's the torque converter from the D2 V8 and (I think) the P38 4.0 V8

She's been a pain for years and years and the council will do nothing about it. Everyone I know avoids Standon ford. It's not worth the hassle. Plenty of other fords in the area, even if they are shorter.

It's not supposed to go through the hole in the outrigger with the steps fitted. How you've got it is correct. The hole is where the splash guards bolt to when steps aren't fitted though.

Undo that jubilee clip and put the pipe going to the radiator onto the other pipe.

I wanted to but the D2 is currently parked over a puddle of gearbox oil on my drive. If the new pipe turns up before Saturday lunchtime then it might be doable, but otherwise it's not happening.

The pipe in your hand is the one that's supposed to go the radiator. The other pipe is the one that's supposed to point down. I'm not sure if them being the wrong way around makes any difference though.

The flange on the front of the cam has indicators for when each the injector lobe for each cylinder is at full lift. There's a picture here: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/injector-timing-marks.203615/ RAVE doesn't mention them as part of the procedure for adjusting the injector...

It is the bracket for the side step. Those probably haven't been available on their own new for years but the part numbers are here: https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/14.55780.56174.59670/brand/land-rover/

Absolutely. I'm not saying he shouldn't go and look, or even that he shouldn't buy it, just that he shouldn't pay £3500 for it.

Yeah but those advisories mean there's welding needed in 2 places sooner rather than later. The rear arch is easy access for welding, around the brake servo probably less so. It's not a £3500 car, especially with those advisories.

Getting the injector timing right when refitting is important too - use the timing indicators on the cam rather than eyeballing it.

As long as you've capped the connection on the pipe from the vacuum pump to the brake booster then yes.

You need to blank the connection in the middle of the vacuum pipe that goes to the solenoid, then you can unplug it and remove it if you want.

It's fine without the top nut, a lot of people leave it off.