I appreciate your help, but at this rate I think I'll just cut my losses and strip it for parts Thanks for all your help :D

Running fine, as in not misfiring. Water leaking from rear of the head

Just picked it up from the MOT centre. Passed, but temperature gauge when straight to red on the way home. Pulled over, steam everywhere, opened coolant filler cap and the water exploded out. Filled it with 5 litres of water, locked it and left it for the night. Head gaskets maybe damaged again...

Leads were fitted as per a diagram I found online, although the injectors are connected (semi)-randomly so I'm sure it's those. I'll have another fiddle tomorrow when the weather is nice. Thanks for all of your suggestions

She drives but the idle is very shakey. More than it was before the head gasket was changed. It's misfiring but I don't know why. I'll see if I can get a video tomorrow. I think the injectors are connected in the wrong order, but my mechanic has assured me otherwise.

It was running fine before HGs were changed, I can't imagine something would have gone bad in the mean time. Can unmetered air enter through the ends of the valley gasket?

Changed HT leads and plugs today. Running a lot better, but still rough. Could lack of valley gasket seals be causing it?

Just had a look in my spare bits box - found the new valley gasket seals inside :rolleyes: Looks like I forgot to fit them. I'm sure that isn't helping

So I should be using gasket sealant along with the gaskets?

What other places could air be seeping in from? All connections, from the air box to the intake, are sealed tight

Plenum gasket and inlet manifold gasket both new. I just got it to idle without cutting out, although it was rough. But when I revved and let it drop back down, it stalled again. It seems letting the revs drop will cause it to cut out. Plugs are in good order, leads in good order, coils are in...

Just replaced both the gaskets. Still running very rough, cuts out if I let it idle. The heads were torqued correctly, 20nm - 90 - 90. The injectors for cyls 4 6 and 3 5 have enough length of cable for them to be connected the wrong way, although they are currently connected where the cables do...

The intake manifold gasket isn't in great condition, so I'll see if I can get a replacement. Would having the injectors connected the wrong order also have an effect?

I think I have all the hoses connected properly, anyone got a picture of what they should be connected to? I'll have a go swapping the coils too. It idles around 200rpm before stalling.. Was hoping for a CEL so it would tell me which cylinder is misfiring

Update: IT LIVES! You were right Doo, it was indeed the crankshaft sensor. Only problem now is, it runs rough as hell, and cuts out as soon as I take my foot off the gas. Any ideas?

Mine is a Bosch engine

It's a 1999 (V plate). How do I tell which engine I have?

I'll double check tomorrow morning, thanks for your suggestion

There's no obvious noise of the fuel system pressurising when I turn the ignition on. Lack of pressure from the valve on the fuel rail would support this. Diagnostic scan also shows no DTCs.

Update: Sprayed some starter fluid into the intake, still no change. Tried pressing the centre of the valve on the injector rail, a small puff of air came out, then nothing. Still have not found where that mysterious connector goes. I thought it was originally a fuel problem, but surely the...