Just changed mine. Had to cut the hoses off the metal pipes as they were all jammed on. The only really awkward one is the bottom connection to the IRD cooler. Which connection is its spraying from ? There's three connections - heater inlet, thermostat, and IRD cooler. Got mine from Dingocroft...

"px to clear" translates to "can't be bothered to fix it", even for this ridiculous asking price. I'd want a new MOT and a decent warrantee on it for that money. IMHO, if you need HDC you need a different vehicle.

1.8 petrol. Screwed my arm up at work so wont be doing anything to it any time soon.

+1. Cheapest option. It's what I'd do. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/02-FREELANDER-ICE-BLUE-TAILGATE-REAR-DOOR-BOOTLID-BREAKING-FULL-CAR-IN-SHOP-/141589618383?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3AFreelander&hash=item20f7661ecf Mind you, you might be just as well selling it as it is. Some people like...

As per the title. Biting point is very low and it clinks into gear sometimes. Doesn't slip at all and hasn't got worse over the 300 miles I've owned it. If anything it's loosened up a bit. When I changed the rear brake adjuster the brake pedal eventually goes right to the floor if you keep a lot...

Found an oem one on eBay for £31 part number 100840 in case anyone else is looking for one. Not that anyone else would be daft enough to leave theirs laying on the exhaust.....��

second hand ecu and keys :doh:

Cheers Stuart the first one is the right part.

Still can't post in the wanted section :( Melted a plug today, pure stupid. Its the 4 pin plug and wiring I need that bolts on to the back of the exhaust manifold and goes to a plug on the right hand side of the engine.

Tore the knuckles off my left hand putting the rear brakes back together (adjuster completely seized), got an eye full of crap whilst investigating the knocking from underneath (exhaust hitting the arm, foam padding cable tied on, knocking almost gone)) and melted the H2OS plug on the exhuast...

And get yourself a calculator.;)

This means your VCU is fubar. Remove the propshaft asap !!.

Tried to remove washer bottle pumps without removing the front bumper. All the screws "holding" the wing liner were buggered solid. They weren't holding anything anyway so I drilled them out. Folded the liner back, ooh loooook, I can see the pumps. Can I get my hand in there to remove the pipes...

I have a thing for clearing blocked pipes with, basically a big plunger you fill with water then force it down the pipe. I found a mystery water leak with it by putting the nozzle in the top of the reservoir. Not on a freelander but should work on any car. link here to something similar Drain...

Ie, a freelander that's still going.....:rolleyes:

Just replaced the hankook dynapros on the front with Falken Landair. Much quieter and seem to grip a little better. They're summer tyres apparently, but, really ? Maxxis something or others on the back, no prop so not worried about a few mm difference in tread depth.

Mine did a few strange things after I put the new battery on it (the recommended one so I don't burn the alternator diode out) similar to yours. Rear window playing up (or down) door locks not working properly, all seems to be ok at the moment touch wood.

If it bothers you, report them to ebay.

The pipe is the same, the upgraded stat doesn't join the heater inlet pipe as I thought. Just needed to see it in daylight ! Ordered from dingocroft in the end, similar prices to everywhere else but the comedy name swung it for me.

cheers teddywood1, the adjuster is seized solid. Defintely needs a new one.