I really will get some photos soon, promise... Anyway, a little bit of a pre-pic teaser. Last Monday it got dragged kicking and screaming through an MOT. Advisory on start of some rust (which I knew about) and play in a wheel bearing (which was fine when I put the whole swivel sub assembly on a...

Possibly a 'silly' suggestion, but check the battery and engine earths first - battery and starter can be just fine, but a poor earth can cause a huge voltage drop which increases the current the starter is drawing, which overheats the solenoid contacts and makes them smoke...

I'd like to know the chemistry behind that statement... I painted the front axle on my 88 about 8 years (or so) ago with hammerite, and it's fine - yes, there are little patches with some surface rust showing but that's because it's been knocked about a bit over the years. I would go with...

In that location I would personally argue the point if it was deemed a failure. From that picture (and if the shinier bit is indeed actually steel above the hole) what you should really do is cut it all out and start again. Sealing/painting is all well and good, but if it was done 'before'...

As far as I know, the boot floor is in no way structural. seatbelt mount points must be secure obviously, but these only pass through the floor from the chassis. My own interpretation of the "within 12 inches of a suspension / body mount" means part of the same structure - so if the chassis...

Honestly yes, I did forget it. The reason I forgot it is thus: All it does of use is switch and time (in the most complicated way it can think of). If mine were ever to fail it would be a relatively simple proposition to replicate or eliminate it's functions and remove it.

There doesn't have to be much. On the 'electronic' front (i.e. relies on an ECU for basic functionality), my 300 has: Electric windows Immobiliser/alarm Remote central locking Stereo And 'electrical' rather than 'electronic': Windscreen wipers Lights Erm..... I think that's about...

I really should take some pictures, but I didn't earlier and now it's dark... Yes, I have a flash but using that realy accentuates the rust ;) So, I have rebushed both lower link arms and put the new shocks on. Now, I said the top mount had sheared on one side - well, the other side did exactly...

If it were me...... First thing I'd do is a proper load analysis, consider how much of that auxiliary lighting is going to be used concurrently. 1,500W is a fair amount, at a 'nominal' 13.8v that's around 110A. Are they all facing forward? Is LED an option? LED is higher cost, but you can get...

I forgot those... Haven't seen one for aaaaaaggggggeeeesssssss.

I've not seen one that attaches to the bumper, all of them bolt to the chassis...

If you're not sure if your alarm sounder is functioning, lock it with the fob then unlock the passenger door using the key - if the alarm is happy to make noise that'll set it off ;)

I don't know what you can possibly fit (other than the 100A unit) but, why do you want more than 100A available continuously?

Have you checked it's not the swivel housing moving due to failed bearings there?

Well today I got the rear brakes bled through, and I put the new bushes in the rear lower link arm - getting the old ones out was a pig of a job as I'm sure many of you know... So then I had a look at putting the new rear shocks on. The old ones still function just fine, but the shroud had come...

I stand corrected (which is a place I don't mind standing at times ;) ) I was (mis)informed that the heavy duty chassis fitted with drop shackles, extended dumb irons/hangers and bump stops and heavier springs were what gave the 1ton payload.

Just thought I might as well clarify something. It's about my 'trouble free' nearly 5 years...... Nothing serious happened, or at least not to my mind considering the age of the car. Apart from routine servicing I had the following problems and fixes: Driver's door window - one day I went to...

It's alright, I can wait for the people on the other forum to google it.......

Ah, but did they tell you which end can move 11"? I can tell you for a fact that unless you've modified something you will not get 11" of travel both front and rear.

What you have in your hand is a front shock for a 109. What you have sat on your drive is a one ton 109. Yours has longer spring shackles than a 'standard' civvy 109 which means you've 'effectively' got a suspension lift fitted... Once you get your original shocks off compare them to the new...