Honestly, neither are a big job. Radius arm bushes are the bigger of the two, if you are doing it yourself without a press then you should opt for poly bushes. Your axle shouldn’t have outer hub seals, the caps act as the outer seal and it’s a dead easy job.

Sounds like diff oil leaking out of the end caps then. You’ll need to check the diff breathers are clear and possibly replace the rubber caps (get genuine if you can). The breather is on the top side of the diff. Very easy to unscrew it and check, clean the banjo bolt of it looks clogged and...

Hub seals might just be the rubber end caps leaking? Have a look where the leak is coming from. You’ll need access to a hydraulic press to replace the bushes, unless you opt for poly. A friendly garage might change the bushes if you took the arms to them, for a few beer tokens (save yourself a...

It’s not a TD5 though. Probably a 19J 2.5TD, or maybe a 200tdi transplant. Neither of which are particularly fussy as to exact specs. Front hub seal leaks could possibly just be the rubber hub caps.

I can’t remember the size off the top of my head, but I deleted that pipe and now have one length of diesel hose from the sender to the lift pump.

I knew what you meant! You’re probably still elated from not having to pay the ATC again! One more year for me…if the buggers don’t change it.

Your 110 was born Nov 2024? 🤔

Wraparound period bullbars, black grille and black light surrounds and she’ll look mint.

You can find the part numbers on this diagram. Hope it helps.

Some Bosch pumps have a small filter on them. Can’t remember exactly where, but it’s hiding under a bolt (if present). Worth exploring. Sounds fuel related.

I’d be looking for a faulty lift pump (even from new) or an obstruction in the fuel line somewhere (possibly even within the lift pump).

Jack up the n/s/f wheel and check for bearing and/or swivel pin play.

I’d say N/S preload, followed by steering shaft UJs. Maybe both.

I have repaired similar using CT1 to stick on some aluminium backing plates and then body filler to finish.

EP90 is fine for the transfer box. They won’t need to drain the box, but they may choose to, 5l is plenty!

I wouldn’t worry too much, mine has been dripping transfer box oil, gear oil and engine oil for at least the 15 years I’ve owned it. They’re notorious for it, shouldn’t do it, but they mostly do! The front output seal leak, which yours looks like, is actually easy to cure with the correct seal.

Yep, that’s gear oil from the t-box. Front output seal, as mentioned, is No1 suspect.

I fitted a paired Durite sender and gauge a couple of years back. The gauge displays the actual temperature reading, but for whatever reason it’s now reading 15C ish off. I can’t be ar•sed trying to trace the issue, so I’m going to fit a mechanical capillary setup and see if that can last a...

Approx. 75C at the thermostat housing/start of hose, 60C at the bottom of the rad, 50/55C at the bottom of the pump. The gauge was showing 90-95C. This was after a 15 minute run at 23C.

Infrared thermometer (tested against known hot things - boiling kettle and my forehead), shows that the gauge is reading about 15C too high, which would tie-in with what it should be showing. So, we have an electrical issue somewhere. Time to look at a mechanical gauge, as clearly Land Rover...