Definitely an air leak but not necessarily a 'bag leak' it could be a pipe or as in my case one of the valves attached to the compressor. I used a spray bottle of soapy water to pinpoint my air leak.

BRAKE!

Just check the engine no. It will either start with 10P or not (15P -19P) if it’s been replaced. The TD5 engine number is on the left hand side of the engine (turbo side) about half way along the block below the exhaust manifold. Nothing wrong with a good 10P

Do a search on here for 'snapped crankshafts' / 'crankshaft failure'

Drain tubes should be fine although the plastic corner connectors are prone to snapping off. Once replaced the tube which hangs free from the factory should be stuck to the roof to stop the weight of the free hanging tubes from snapping the corner connectors off again.

You would just be adding another potential failure point for no logical reason.

If it has a full LR service history that was carried out correctly it shouldn't have had any MOT advisories for service items?

Can't see your video but what you described is correct assuming it isn't pushing the rod too far back in the cylinder.

I would try lubrication of the catch and handle mechanism with a spray lube.

You just need to reprogram it with a diagnostic tool. Find someone with a Nanocom / Hawkeye or invest in one.

Both valve blocks are knackered with cracked bodies.

That is the feed to the EGR cooler from the back of the oil cooler. When people do a complete EGR delete they remove the steel pipe from that stubby hose and either use a big bolt to blank it or replace it with a rubber blanking cap from the later TD5 which didn't have the EGR cooler pipe. You...

Helps if you give model / year.

It's a common modification and factory standard on later TD5s.

Belts don't come any better than Gates!

I'm afraid it doesn't matter what you have had to spend on maintenance it doesn't make it worth anymore than the market value of a 125,000 mile D2 with galvanised chassis which may make it more desirable and add 2k to the value.

How is the foam on the engine side of the bulkhead attached, can it be peeled off in one piece and reused or is it glued on and has to be scraped off in pieces?

I would definitely clear the cill and Aircon drains to eliminate them and move on from there.

I've had 6 TD5s 4 x 110s and 2 x D2 and not one of them has thrown up any "electrical issues at the drop of a hat" , in fact the only problems other than service items I've had is 1 X delaminated crank pulley, 1 X screw in core plug behind the exhaust manifold leaking , snapped exhaust manifold...

Most definitely.