Im hoping for improvements all round really. Not sure if anyone read my earlier posts about this 110 but it'd been off the road for 24ish years, sat on a sloped driveway so springs one side had sagged a bit, and bushes generally a bit worse for wear etc, they could even be original still, I...

So the bushes are all britpart black poly bushes, I know, not the best but as a weekend toy that I won't be doing anything particularly crazy in I think its fine, and I don't have a press to fit metalastic bushes. I'm generally trying to go middle of the road, not absolute cheapest but not...

That's not a bad idea just sticking inexpensive useful stuff like that onto your orders so you have some stock of bits you'll need at some point. Also I've been a little quiet as I'm now trying to do a few little bits every day to work through the backlog... she's temporarily off the road...

Rear springs both done now and shocks replaced! I just need to find a new nut for one sides top mounting as I stripped one. Also just wondering what springs it looks like I removed? They look a little thicker so heavy duty? The new ones I've installed are the standard duty RKB101111s

What have I done today... well discovered my cowboy rebuilt wheel cylinder is still leaking, so new cylinders it is! Then I started to change the springs as I have a whole new set to go on (just standard height/duty britpart, nothing special) and new shocks. Started with the nearside rear...

As someone else said above I would just replace the front grill/light surrounds (can get britpart ones for like £40ish total), maybe the bumper if its damaged or rotten anywhere, or just paint it. Then stuff like the light lenses, I did mine but then I also did get a freebie bag of defender...

I think my pair are more or less the same as those, supposedly heavy duty... Only used them to get one spring out and back in so far, didn't seem the best but they got the job done, along with pry bars and dropping the axle as low as possible. I'm gonna need to break them out again soon as...

It does a bit to be fair, but that's what's stated in my 83-92 workshop manual. I probably just barely went to 120 with mine, after giving the bolts a good clean and a bit of copper grease, and new spring washers.

In my workshop manual there is 'Brake caliper to swivel housing', which I assumed was the right thing when doing mine and it states 120-150 Nm. That's with the course threaded bolts with spring washers. Also I never realised until doing it there were two different threads, I'd ordered new fine...

Thanks for the offer, but I'm after steels really. Something that doesn't look out of place on an older 110, tubeless and ok offset/width for 235/85/16s without (much) rubbing the radius arms. Thats why I was thinking wolfs/copies. If I'm gonna spend a decent chunk of money I want them to...

What are the wolf copies like generally? decent enough? I keep eyeing up those sets of wheels on ebay etc, new rims with tyres as right now I have a set of 7.50 x 16 Deestone MTs in the garden, which are alright but noisy and a bit hard.... and set of fairly worn 235/85/R16 continental ATs...

I have no experience of these carbs on the V8s but I'd just whip them off and take them apart as much as possible to try and figure out whats going on. They do look like pretty simple carbs to be fair, simpler than the Weber on my 17H... and even on that when I started digging into it, it wasn't...

Round 2 with the fuel lines today, got them both replaced after taking the wheel off, and another trip out to get some new pipe as I had some too big and some other too small. In taking the wheel off I found a leaking wheel cylinder as well... I knew I had a seal kit somewhere so I had a...

So I decided it was fuel line replacement day... yeah, maybe a little overdue as this is the rear section of return line, dated 2015! I replaced that fine, and then I went for the feed line which is even older... got that off but I'm yet to get a new one on. I need to go back at it...

Im not sure on the seal in the axle. I know the rear axle doesn't have any seals as its a Salisbury, the front might still have them, but as with most rubber things after 37 years, they might not be the best! I get that gear oil is far from the worst thing to have lubricating bearings, but...

Ok so back story, I knew there was pressure building up in the front axle from when I changed the diff oil but kinda ignored it... Some time later I was changing the wheels over and noticed some play in one of the wheels. Suspecting a bearing I ordered a pair of new ones, then a weekend or so...

Check your breathers and pop the drive flanges off to see whats going on! This is exactly what I've been dealing with recently on the front axle of my 1988 110... totally blocked breather seems to have forced the oil from the axle out the ends and then through into the bearings on both sides...

When im done with this that'll be both fronts done with new Timken bearings! I think the rears seemed ok last time I checked so hopefully they're good for a bit longer at least. The front axle breather was blocked so I think that's at least contributed to the situation, although at least oil...

Yeah I have another kit so not a huge deal, I just planned to be lazy as I don't have that much time before I head off on friday. I think they're from the rollers, the inner race has marks too but not as bad, and they're only on one side of the races. Possibly something to do with sitting for...

I've just taken my nearside hub off hoping to repack the bearings rather than renew as I did with the other side due to oil getting into the bearings from the axle... Yeah I don't think I'll be repacking with races like this... I guess that's more work for me later on now, a very familiar...