I'm quite happy running Smith & Allan's Ultra 15W40 in my 2.5 petrol... but its a mineral oil. They have a full synthetic but not too sure if they do a semi too.

I'll have a look at the weekend and see how I might be able to proceed while things are still in situ... but it is looking like I should really do more than just stick something in the bottom. I might see if its possible to grind the weld off the jacking point on the worse side, cut along the...

I've done a bit of cutting and poking and sucking rust out with trusty Henry and yeah, the situation isn't ideal! Definitely a bit worse than I was hoping for as there's a hole through to inside the crossmember, but I think im still gonna try and patch this up. I'm thinking cut away/remove...

I didn't even think about that but makes perfect sense! I just ordered stuff quickly earlier with express delivery as I want it for the weekend. I'm not going to get the welding done just yet but at least I can stick the new bumper on to drive about. Since I opted for standard I wouldn't...

Seems now a standard galv aftermarket one is about £90-100... galv military about 150+. I'm going to properly clean it up later but I don't think its gone quite that far back to the crossmember. I just feel like I need to weld it up for now to get it through MOT and the winter and see how...

That sounds like the proper fix! For this im going to just cut away what I can, clean it up and see where things are at. I'm pretty set on trying to patch it back together if at all possible. Just a little further back from the hole on the bottom it actually looks pretty good still, so...

So today I made the silly move of taking off the bumper to have a look... yeah im not sure exactly what I was expecting tbh. I'm thinking I'll just try and patch it up as best I can. I don't really fancy replacing the whole dumb iron with a repair piece yet, which is probably the textbook...

Oil pressure is a good shout, that's the only extra gauge I have in my 110, it's a nice Durite mechanical one. I quite like being able to watch the pressure, although I need to shorten the capillary tube as its way too long and just coiled up by the bulkhead right now. I meant to put a T piece...

I'm getting somewhere now... I got the front springs and shocks replaced today, cleaned up the area a bit along with putting on shiny new galv turrets. Still to put the expansion tank back in place etc but I'm happy with how things have come on in the past few weeks. Hopefully she sails...

Right, ignore what I've said about the Weber carb then! Unless you happen to have one...

He said 2.5 Petrol above so I was just assuming straight 17H out of an early 90/110 and kept in the same form. Although yeah more clarification needed, things could've changed, it could be a mistake and actually it's just a standard 2.25!

Also another thing with the carb, as well as blocked jets, with these more complex Webers there's also the possibility of stuck solenoids. One is for the float chamber vent which has a rubber plunger bit on the end, which can come off the pin and get stuck closed. This one is right next to the...

Realistically for the cost of the parts I'd just be doing the whole igition system... points, condenser, cap, leads, coil and plugs. Also if you do have to dig into the carb I have some scans from a haynes manual for the Weber 32/34 DMTL somewhere if you want them. Helped me when I was...

Just throwing my 2c in since I have a 2.5 Petrol 110... I had had some issues with mine starting ok, sometimes running rough and shortly cutting out after a while, turned out it was the condenser! I replaced that and she was running ok again but with a misfire mid range, which then turned...

To me it sounds like the transfer box is the issue... I know 90s came with a 1.4, and earlier ones came with 6.50 tyres, and later 205/75 (or something like that, im just guessing)... So putting massive tyres on even stock you're going to effectively shift everything up a bit higher with...

That is literally the stuff he was referring too.... however to be fair I think the previous comments about it were maybe a little unfair, people do use it to good effect too but I feel like if you use it in the wrong circumstances it can cause more issues. Waxoyl is a bit old school and theres...

Busy day! today I finished off my bush changing, got the second radius arm back on and then did the panhard rod. Then after putting stuff back together I welded up a DIY brake shoe spreader and changed both my rear wheel cylinders. Only one was leaking but I thought I might as well do both...

I think mines been sitting at about 1/3 full, I never topped it up properly after replacing the thermostat. Temps sit nicely just below the half way mark on the gauge, rad hoses nice and hot... all is good! As for the manuals, I got one of the big workshop manuals with my 110, 83-92 I think...

The radius arms literally connect the axle to the chassis, they're the big chunky things that bolt underneath. As far as I'm aware the radius arms connect and keep the axle in position, stopping it moving back/forth and then the panhard rod is there to keep the axle centralised and prevent...

As someone who's spent a good bit of time this weekend doing my own radius arm bushes, nothing to be scared of! I was putting it off but its not too bad a job, the biggest issue I've had was getting the offside arm off. I had to cut the front bolt and the big nut needed a lot of back and forth...