Did this a while ago but needed decent rain shower to test it ... Leak in boot fixed. It was the bonding along the top of the rear quarterlight window. Smear of sealant in the gap and she's dry again.

Will it run on default values if you just unplug the MAF?

People normally only peg the diff with locking diffs? Rangie has centre diff but not usually locking axles, unless you added them? Limited slip diff would be good.

You can show a reversing camera on the sat nav screen. I think someone put the details on a Jag forum. Same design. It is an American format, not PAL and it has to be RGB+ or something I cannot remember. Google it!

Someone smacked mine. Didn't break but now wobbles so I think the plastic strap / strut from the back has popped off.

When I say spare wheel, I mean inside the car. As in take the spare wheel out and look underneath it. Or is the spare wheel accessed from underneath? There's a thing from JLR called Topix which is a sort of online version of RAVE, the workshop manual. RAVE might even cover the early L322. Worth...

Never played with one but I think it is under the spare wheel? If it isn't there then it will probably be under the car behind the rear wheel on the left (near-side in the UK).

+1. I don't know if there are any joins but I wouldn't want to find out the hard way. No harm in a funnel and a jug of water.

I would check the compressor output. Got a feeling there might be 2 different brands used in the L322?

I have the Pioneer DEH4000 in mine. Whipped it out if the scrapper because it has USB. Only red backlight though. I miss my tape-player!

So did I!

I'm about 40 minutes away from Oxford, over the border in Buckinghamshire.

Don't know how the electric windows work on the classic but could just be a fused wire straight to the switch? Easy enough to make one to get the window working for the TÜV?

Can't seem to open the link. I thought this looked reasonable but apparently it only has blue backlighting. https://caraudiocentre.co.uk/products/sony-dsx-a510bd?_pos=1&_sid=5146cda7a&_ss=r

They're called ****part for a reason!

Hmmm, if it only did it hot I would suspect a crank or cam sensor starting to go. It may still be. How old are the coil packs and HT leads?

RF interference (loads on here) or aftermarket stereo draining it - usually switched and permanent live mixed up. Or headlight wipers not parked properly.

Now that's a good point. MCB and RCDs would be the sensible option. No brainer when you stop and think about it. Surely they must have them?

Not sure about that but I would have to talk to a pro before I tried it. The current required to propel a 2 ton brick to 60 mph in under 10 seconds must be pretty high. Wouldn't want that earthing through my socks.

Only on one side? Might be worth twisting ever so slightly while engine is running and someone is ready to kill it.