That's fair comment indeed, Marjon. But when I made that assumption I was unaware there was a return pipe. I simply assumed (yeah, that word again) that for some reason, each carb had its own fuel feed.

I don't have anyone to operate the key so have to do the testing myself. All I know is, with the pipe on the left disconnected as shown in the photo (and I assume this is the pipe from the fuel pump via a filter) turning the key for a second or two results in a wet patch of petrol on the inlet...

That's the problem with this type of carb. As you can see from the photo, the float chambers are the concentric (to the main jet) type and there's not enough clearance to remove them separately. I prefer the older design with the float mounted remotely and connected by a fuel bridge as you could...

Thanks for the tips and suggestions, everyone. I've since checked out on the price of exchange units and they're obscenely expensive, so it's going to have to come down to a strip down and rebuild instead. Yes, their operation is certainly simple; getting them off might not be, though. There are...

AI reckons they're type HIF6, so unless anyone knows better, I'll run with that for now. I need to look into the options, the two most likely being exchange recon units or DIY with a service kit.....

It's only been standing for two weeks. Whatever the problem is, it's affecting *both* carbs which is what made me initially suspect the fuel pump. But that's fine. So it's a real head-scratcher for sure. When I did the Easy Start test, I placed a brick on the accelerator pedal so it was flat to...

Hi all, I've encountered a problem with my 1989 V8 3.5 petrol engined Landy. It's like totally dead. No signs of life even though it's spinning like a top on the starter. It *will* run fine on Easy Start, though, so the ignition system's fine. However, pumping the accelerator like mad and...

Yes, when an engine frustratingly tries to fire-up at the end of a cranking it's a pretty clear pointer to a battery issue. That's not the problem here, though as the motor spins like a top and continues to do so over many minutes of intermittent cranking (to save it from overheating). Not being...

Phill, I believe it's the original distributor and amp from the look of it. Obviously it's had at least one new cap and leads in the last 36 years. This is the model with the amp on the side of the dizzy. I just put a new coil on it. Supposedly OEM, but the original had a primary resistance of 1...

Failing electronics? Yes, certainly a strong possibility. But failing or already failed? I could rescue this - at least for now - by adding a single, simply MOSFET stage to the amplifier's output. If I choose a FET with enough gate capacitance, it should remove all the tiny pulses, thereby...

Er, yes. Yes, I have. It pulled apart really easily. Typical of me not to think of that. Anyway, inside, it's just a connector and it doesn't join 3 wires together after all. It really only connects one to one. So hardly a "component" at all really! My ignition is still playing up so I put a...

Thanks, all. I'll see if I can get them separated tomorrow......

Hmmm. I hadn't considered that, Kermit. So I could just solder those 3 wires together and have done with this weird and confusing 'fuse-holder type thing' arrangement.

It might well pull-apart and I'll give that a go tomorrow when I next have access to it. However, it still doesn't explain why it - if it is simply a connector as seems to be the case given the web link I found - there are two wires going in and just one coming out! And a belated apology to...

I just took another look and noticed RIST'S embossed on the side of the 'fuseholder-looking thing' so Googled it and it turns out it's these: https://www.3waycomponents.co.uk/product-category/automotive-connectors/lucas-rists-connectors/e-series-connectors/e-series-connector-kits/ "3-way...

Beats me too. Other wires: there are the two that come from the ignition amplifier that go to the coil (-) and (+) terminals. Those two are inside the corrugated sleeve which runs alongside the 'fuse-holder' (or whatever it is) in the photo. Plus the single wire from the (-) terminal that goes...

The "other two"? I'm not sure why a fuse would have two wires in; one wire out to be honest. In any event, it doesn't come apart so far as I can tell. As for the condenser theory, I think you'll find they actually used an inductor for screening out radio interference - and it was in the...

Hi all, I'm having problems with the ignition system on my '89 V8 3.5 litre County 110. In order to work out what's going wrong, there are two components I need to identify but I have no idea what they are or what their purposes are. Just wondering if anyone here can assist in IDing them? (see...

Plus the hydraulic tappets on the V8 can lock if the engine's not run for extended periods.

Fan belt on my recent acquisition (1989 V8 110) was squealing like a stuck pig so I got a replacement from our local motor factors this afternoon. They asked me if the belt I wanted was the 10mm or the 13mm one. I measured the existing one and it was five - and all the teeth were gone! No wonder...