They are but with some work and revealing of the box and dash you can get a reasonable heat output from them.

I have the military anti burst locks so door handle is down by your hip same as the fronts. So it is no issue form that respect not having a door car.

10 years and counting on my 110 with nearly 200k miles on them. So I would say the Teflon lasts pretty well!

I ran britpart poly on my panrod for a while, when they fail you know about it instantly, and being poly they are only about 10 min to swap over so I was not too worried about fitting them. They lasted me a couple of year a set with the mileage I do so did not do badly. I am currently running a...

You are not the first person to suggest that. I am happy not to have door cards but passengers and the wife, who are used to modern plastic cars, seem to think that is rather uncivilised.

Are britpart making chrome wones again now? There was a time where they only did the teflon ones, although they are reasonable and I have had no problems with them on my 110.

That’s the issue I have found. No replacements or aftermarket seem available for the second row split doors. Only the originals which are either wrecked, in use, or cost more than a whole Land Rover!

I do indeed thank you for clarifying. I have not found anywhere doing door cards for the split door station wagon second row.

Do you have a link, I have the early 110 split doors on my station wagon front and back. I have military door cards on the front but cannot find any door cards for the rear.

In which case you already have the series type military doors I am referring to and have fitted to mine. In which case I believe the antiburst locks along with the correct striker will fit if you remove the door card. Also I believe the military door cards (what I have passenger side only on...

The if yoi are getting rid of all of that then your only issue will be the window mechanism and if that gets in the way of the lock or how to cover it if you have no door card. Or be done with it and for the series style military doors. That’s what I have on my 110! Sliding windows are much...

I think the issue is with the door card lock Button and internal opening catch. The military ones a like the series style where the inside is a “mirror” or the outside with a curved handle from the lock to open and a small sliding catch to lock rear to a rear door. Because of this they may fit...

If you are very new to it all I would first of all think very carefully about what you want to do/carry in it. A 90 is the same external dimensions (length and width) as a golf. You can carry things, a dog, or people, but you can only choose one as the back is too small for multiples. If large...

Age and engine type? I would recomend a mid-80’s, model with series doors fitted and a tdi engine conversion. That will get you the closest experience to what @saxavordian is describing and the true Land Rover driving expiriance. Don’t listen to the nay sayers who only Want new one and think...

This is the key. Very ver different between first na engined 90/110. And the last puma models. Dealer would let you drive what you are looking to buy but doesn’t help you choose between models if you have no experience.

I am happy to be corrected by other members more experienced than me as I am involved with the older end rather than the newer end. But it was my understanding that a 4 bolt box was a 4bolt box and they were the same from the very first defender right through until at least TD5, my experience...

That is the same design as mine is with the clamps to hold it in place. As mentioned above on the thread there are older versions that were designed to be bolted to the gutter rather than clamped in place. I was careful to avoid these when I was buying mine!.

I will admit to setting mine up by feel similar to others here and usually with the rear seal in place as I am adjusting rather than rebuilding. I have never removed the disc, even when setting up properly first couple of times I did it using a spring gauge,.

the flaps themselves are in the dash ducting so you need to disassemble completely to fully access. However it is far more likely to be a cable issue than the flaps. I would start at the control end and see if the cable is firstly still attached and if it is free to move. If you remove the...

I have a compressor. I still refuse to learn to spray it. Far too much risk of getting it wrong and messing the panel up. At least with a brush and roller if you get it wrong you can recover it by going over it again while Still wet! Two year is longer than it took to rebuild mine after the...