All I can really find out it is the approximate build date was January. Unfortunately the Series 3 was still being produced until 1985 (although I don't know if that was at Solihull) so I doubt you'll be able to use the serial number from the vin to narrow it down

What's your VIN

I'll have a look around today and check all of them. I think it is a turbo/boost issue rather than a fuel one

As far as I'm led to believe it's positive pressure so this shouldn't be the case. Only other things I could think of relating to this were that the wastegate is seized from being parked up and not opening fully, or the pipe I fitted is ballooning under pressure and not allowing the wastegate to...

Ill need to start having a look around all the hoses and pipes as I can't think of anything else it can be

It's not actually that high, it's about 100nm. You probably do it tighter yourself with a breaker bar

This seems to be an intermittent problem although it's more often than not and it's driving me mental as it makes for a horrible drive. Around town driving and on generally flat roads it's mostly ok and has ok power in lower gears. When I go into the motorway or any national speed limit roads...

The army tested the wheels after the issue of the shorter wheel studs was brought up and found it to have no adverse effect or risk but suggested the increase in torque as a precaution

Ill check mine again but I'm sure it doesn't. It's got three lugs on it but no notch in any of them

If you're against replacing anything original with new parts then owning a Land Rover isn't for you

Looking at that it is odd that your rear wheels are out of toe by the same amount but surely the front wheels can't then be aligned to 0 toe using the rear wheels as a guide

Thanks all. I managed to find this (see attached) which gives a good idea of somewhere to start and the correct drop arm position. It's kinda for their heavy duty conversion kit but is applicable to standard set ups. Unfortunately I don't have the notch on the back of mine as it was normally...

I'll also need to find out how I can correctly determine that the drop arm and steering box is in the dead centre straight ahead position. Steering wheel isn't anything to go by unfortunately

Does anyone know the correct settings for doing the tracking properly? Toe in or out settings and where the drop arm should be pointing. I know that with the wheels in the straight ahead position the drop arm should be slightly to the offside but are there any marks to show the correct position...

Checked the swivel preload (again) and filled both front hubs up with nice new grease. Changed the a frame balljoint (what a **** of a job), tightened the rear right wheel bearing, replaced the UJs on the rear prop, tried to see why my rear diff flange was leaking before deciding that it must be...

Haw!

Check continuity on the horn connections coming from the switch. If you get an open circuit when you press it then the switch is buggered

Earth issues. I had this with my fuel and temp guages where they would fluctuate by themselves with the fuel guage occasionally dropping to zero despite plenty fuel in the tank. It was especially apparent with the side lights on. Not only did I find chaffing to the fuel sender earth wire at the...

Get a 110, it'll make life a lot easier

Done the front propshaft UJs and refitted it then sealed a leak (hopefully) on the transfer box. Discovered that my rear prop now needs the UJs doing but that's a tomorrow job and with that off it'll let me sort out that diff flange leak as well.