Permanent 4 wheel drive. There is a diff in the centre, which is why you have to hold the front flange to get the rear prop to turn. The difflock lever near the gear lever is for locking the centre diff.

A quick update. One of the things I wanted was to remove the need to handle cans when I don't want to get mucky, like just before I go to work in the morning and find I need to refuel - I might as well do the can handling when I've been out to the bio place to fill them up, and try to keep...

Thanks all. The drill pump is looking like the best option. I'd rather not faff with charging batteries, so maybe a 12V drill wired to plug into the fag lighter socket is worth considering. The alternative is to get a more powerful inverter - saw some 1200W (2KW peak) jobbies on eBay for 30...

Repainted the bumper and door mirror arm-thingies black. Painted the ally treadplate on the wings black. Gave up trying to fix the horn when a major ****-down arrived. At least the paint was touch-dry by then.

Was thinking of something like that, provided I can find a drill that runs on the 300W inverter (haven't looked yet, but the last drill I bought was more like 900W). Maybe a different, lower-powered tool can be adpated...

Haven't bought any in the last few weeks, but it was about 30p a litre cheaper when I last got it.

The frequency is about 1.5 to 2KHz, I reckon. (It's been a while since I last heard a 1KHz test tone, so I'm guessing a bit). Does that help?

I run my 90 on biodiesel, which I'm happy with, but filling from the plastic cans is a bit of a pain (the bio place is a 2 hour round trip away, so I get a tankful plus 125 litres in cans at a time). The main problem is spillage. Even though I'm careful, there is often a minor spillage, and I'd...

My 1986 90 has a squeaky clutch pedal. It squeaks when the pedal goes down, it squeaks when the pedal comes up, it squeaks if the pedal moves quickly, and it squeaks if the pedal moves slowly. If I half-press the pedal and wobble it up and down, it goes squeaky-squeaky-squeaky. Interestingly...

Guilty as charged. :) Doesn't explain the apparent reduction in power at middling revs, though...

Yep - oil level was low.

I switched back to using biodiesel today, and I'm wondering about power/performance compared to petro diesel. It took 50L to fill the tank, which I believe is 60L, so 83% bio. It's B100 with winter additive. The engine seems to be fine at low revs - it chugs along in much the same way it does...

My 90 has a 200tdi, LT77 box, and I believe it's the original transfer box. 235/85 tyres. Most I ever had out of it was 77mph on the GPS, but that was on the way back from getting biodiesel - about 1/3 petro diesel, 2/3 bio. I stopped using bio because I felt it was a little underpowered, and...

Cyclists are entitled to use the roads, whether or not there are cycle paths/lanes nearby. (A 'mandatory' cycle path is one where it is mandatory for motor vehicles to stay out of them, and not, as is commonly misconstrued, mandatory that cyclists use them.) The video guy is known about in...

Tracked it down - dodgy brake light switch. It seemed to have two things wrong with it. Inside, the contact on one side had been arcing - black crappy stuff on both parts. The other thing was the little U-shaped bit that moves up and down was ever so slightly loose between the two contacts...

Progress, of sorts... Went out, tried a press on the pedal before going anywhere - no brake lights. Drove round the corner to my lockup, pulled out a lamp to measure resistance directly on the lamp before messing about with a wire to check that the lamp lights up. Got resistance okay (both...

The bullets were quite tight, but a squirt of WD40 and a bit of wiggling back and forth got them out. They all looked decent - not brand new, but everything was reasonably clean. No corrosion to speak of. The contacts in the holders were actually fairly shiny. As I said, removing and inserting...

I didn't explicitly verify the lamps by getting them to light up, but the filaments on both looked okay, and the change in resistance from two lamps, to one lamp, to no lamps, worked both ways round (they were in and out multiple times, both lamps tried in both holders). I'll try verifying them...

Found out earlier today that my brake lights aren't working, and have just been trying to find out what's wrong. Here's what I've done so far... Checked fuse - okay. Check tail lights - okay (so earth at lamps okay). Split connections at brake light switch. Ignition on, the feed...

The clutch & in gear trick worked for me when I tried it a couple of times today. Both times, it baulked a bit trying to put it in low when out of gear, but a tiny bit of clutch in 1st was enough for the lever to slip forward with virtually no resistance.