The floor is out now - access to the rear chassis is quite good. does anyone know if the alloy longitudal stiffeners are available anywhere? Ive tried to add some pics - it doesnt look pretty! steve

In the process of rear chassis repair and decided to remove rear floor rather than removing tub complete. there was a chequer plate overlay which came out fairly easily, then lots of grinding and baging and whats left of the original floor is out. The three steel cross members are in ok nick and...

I didnt want to jump on the back of previous post but I have a prob with my nineties wipers too - at the end of each stroke there is a loud click and the wipers jump slightly - they are still working ok. would a new rack cable sort this out too? many thanks steve

Thanks Andy - taking out the rear floor sounds easier than removing the rear body - is it just the bottom section that comes out - I think mines got chequer plating on the floor but i guess that will just be sat on top of the original floor. Steve

Hi all - noticed yesterday that my offside rear spring is making rapid progress though the upper turret/location that is an integral part of the chassis. are these items that can be sourced complete and welded on or do I have to get me tin snips out? It looks like a rear tub off to do the job...

Just in case anyone is interested, everything from the disco axle fitted the original axle casing OK and landy back up and running with no clunks or major backlash probs! Only issue I have now is that steering wheel is at about 45 deg - presumably cos steering arms were drilled slightly...

Hi all, am about to start swapping front axle internals from a disco 1 into my '84 90 leaving axle casing in place (have unbolted disc swivels at the axle flange and removed swivel, hub disc and half shafts complete). question is will my original brake caliper units bolt back onto the disco...

Hi all - trying to cut corners as usuall - want to swap diff and swivels from a disco axle which I know is in good nick onto my old 90 - question is, can swivel/disc/half shaft assemblies be withdrawn complete by unbolting from the end of the axle tube? then simply a matter of swapping diffs...

G Man - axle still had most of radius arms. shocks swivels hubs , discs and calipers, anti roll bar, track rod and drag link still fitted and me and the three helpers are not small blokes - if you live near newark id be glad of you bench pressing it into place while i put the bolts in...

Ive just bought a second hand disco front axle to replace the knackered front one on my old 90. Having taken 4 of us to load it up and remove it at my place, im wondering if its possible to leave my old axle casing in place and fit the disco diff, swivels drive shafts etc (retain 90 calipers)...

Just looking on fleabay at options for replacing front axle complete on my old 90. There are several disco axles in my area, some 10 spline and some 24 spline - whats the best option please and anything else I should be looking for?? thanks steve

thanks - ive looked on Paddocks/Craddocks - are the brass bushes that the drive shaft runs in still available from anywhere? thanks steve

Hi all - i have a B reg 90. I did some work on the front axle 3 years ago when I first had the truck - swivel bearings, wheel bearings and seals. Its now got lots of backlash in the drive at the front and often clunks two or three times when cornering under load. I seem to recollect when it was...

i think the mistake i made was fitting the seal into the adaptor plate when it was off the engine - starter still attached! and then trying to fit the assembly over the end of the crank - was a bit un wieldly. Engine out next weekend and try again! steve

Finally got MrH (thats what my 90 is called) back up and running after replacing the missing rear cam shell. I managed to remove the cam without taking the head off by removing the rocker shaft and tipping the engine upside down! The new shell was a good drive fit into the block still but i used...

Thanks Treworgy - ive realised that mine is a Disco engine so thats prob the reason why its got the idler wheel and the defender hasnt! If i line up the crank at tdc with the cam on the mark and the fuel pump locked, i can fit the belt ok, but when i tension the belt, you can see the crank...

Thanks for the pic - thats exactly how ive got it - definitely tensioned up with no slack BUT - its the timing mark at the other end on the flywheel which you can screw a locking tool into through the bell housing drain hole to keep the crank at TDC - its either 5mm one way or about 30mm the...

Hi all rebuilding my engine after stripping out cam etc and have just fitted new timing belt and tensioner but I am not 100% happy. Pegged off fuel pump and left it bolted to back plate, cam centre pop marker is dead on the cast lug, crank is lined up with arrow on timing housing but groove in...

thanks for your time Charles - ive drawn a similar blank so my planof attack now is: Drain oil and remove vac pump and skew gear (no need to drop sump i believe), strip front end off engine, remove rocker box and rocker shaft, tip engine on its side, rotate crank to push cam followers as high as...

Hi charles - yes - im planning to try and fit with the cam in situ - thats why i need the journal diameter - shell is in one piece but it is rolled and scarf jointed steve