Well done Geoff, was the angle OK on the new damper bracket ? must get around to fitting mine.

Yep, was surprised how a minimal adjustment to fuel pump and boost sent the EGT upto near 700deg mark.

Wangie take the boost gauge from the turbo side of the manifold that way you are seeing exactly what boost is at the turbo as that is what the wastegate/ boost guage is protecting, it is also where the fuel pump takes its feed from.

1 bar max for 200tdi, my 300 gets to 16psi which is around 1.1bar I think. get one of these they work well and also stop wastegate creep, the wastegate can start to open at 6-8psi so slowing the spool up time a bit, they can also be used to adjust boost without the need to adjust the operating...

Wastegate is there to protect turbo from overboosting, so best to leave as set, you would get less fuel if you move it to the manifold as the pressure will be less and give less movement on the diaphram in the pump. Make sure you have a boost gauge fitted before messing about, give me a call if...

:eek: I bet their torquewrench is a scaffold pole, :D farmers are not known for spending on bits of kit like that.

If you have not run it yet the oil will be high as the filter is empty ?

Boost gauge should really be taken off at the wastegate as its there to mainly protect the turbo, mine runs at about 8-10 PSI in the same sort of driving mine is a 90 with the same set up but has winches roll cage etc so a bit heavier. If its nice and level the boost will drop to 5-6 PSI I have...

There is a very easy fix for most of the defender water leaks, its one not in the official water ingress manual, and it work most of the time. Its simple really just dont drive them when its raining :D. If its only leaking water inside then you dont really have any worries:) mine drips on to...

The viscous fans can lock up, they do have oil in the unit, run it without a fan for a while and see, the bottom pulley seemed loose the other day remember I pointed it out to you, they are damped so it maybe that, have a look at another TD5 as reference. Have you got your new steering arm on...

Drop the whole lot in 300 lump with gearbox and Tbox, get it on the gearbox mounts and then weld the engine mounts where they need to go. Props will then be ok and gear levers in correct place, if yours is EDC then you will need to change the pump, injectors and the solid pipes from pump to...

looks like a good day, the winches had a bit of use I see ;)

From the pic the sump looks like its leaking, is there oil further up the block ? if so check the inlet manifold gasket.

Weekend was great thanks, just wish I had mine with me :mad: I will give you all a longer warning for next year its a great site 6-800 acres apparently. Make sure you adjust the clutch properly, it needs to have some free play it can get hot and do as you have described.

Get the prop off and a new seal I will show you how to do it. ;)

Ouch was the flywheel OK, did you have wading bungs in all the time ? almost looks like something has got inbetween them but the clutch looks clean.

Make sure you do Breast high road, its a great byway and the views are fantastic, they have done some serious work up there now it sounds like its a very easy drive now but well worth it.

Have you changed the track rod ends yet? the wobble was still there when you applied the foot brake so unlikely that its the wheel bearing. Its most likely steering related. If you have changed the track rod ends what did the swivels feel like, both the same ?

Washer back to front and also most likley done up too tight is my guess top and bottom.

Ok