"Wack it of carefully"?? lol

I have removed brakes, hub, stub axle, halfshaft and removed both swivel pins... Just undone the 6 bolts keeping the swivel housing oil seal retainer attached to the swivel housing and was expecting the swivel housing fronts to just come off. They don't as they are still not clearing the...

It defo had a rubber washer which fell out of it. I will replace with the correct copper one. The breather unscrewed okay and looked fairly tidy though it has been painted externally so I'm not sure if that's stopped any components moving as they should. The ballbearing from the inside...

Also, what do I fill Diff and Swivels with?

The oil from the swivel housings was similar to that in the diff (that is minging and a melted chocolate colour and consistency). I started taking them apart originally as the bearings failed MOT. My axle has the breather valve - what can I do to inspect that/check it's integrity? ...or...

Hello All, I just drained the oil from my front diff. There was about a centimetre of crystal clear water in the bottom which came out first, followed by a horrible sludge with the look and feel of melted Cadburys! Does this sound reasonable (I have no idea what to expect)? I wanted to...

I finally got my halfshaft out - on OS, NS one still in progress. Anyway, once I got wheels and hubs off and got back to the stub axle on both sides I tried the turn test again and as if by magic - turning one side suddenly started turning the other in the opposite direction - GREAT, except...

So I got everything to and including the rear brake plate off on the OS now. Haven't gone any further as trying to work out where and how to remove the steering track rod so I can remove the swivel housing. Everything has been a complete pig and I am glad to report it wasn't just me being...

Well I got the hub spanner and finally got the bastards off. I wasn't doing anything wrong, they were just being very stubborn. Even with the spanner I had to use a very long bar to get enough leverage to get the nuts to budge the first part. Things all look well lubricated in there...

Well I don't have a chisel to hand so was making do with a large old screwdriver but it won't budge. The lock washer was bent partially around the lock nut which I have pried back to clear it but it still doesn't budge. Not sure I could hammer the lock washer flat as it sits inside the hub so...

I need to drive about half an hour to get spares (unless anyone can guide me to a good Series spares supplier near Bracknell, that's closer than Autopost in Wimbledon?). So I was hoping to have a list of everything I might need to replace after I get the hub off so I can get it all at the same...

Where did you get your swivel kit from newlad? I presume that's what I need to remove the vertical and horizontal play from the wheel when it's jacked up (what it failed it's MOT on)? I imagine my UV joints will need sorting too??

I thought the large nut needed to come off but didn't have anything to remove it with and thought I'd seek advice before I buggered it up. "Box spanner" was helpful, now I can see what I should be using. Thanks.

How do I remove them? :confused: I have removed the wheel, the MAP hubs and the brake drum so I am left looking at the brake calipers with the hub in front of that with what looks like a huge nut though very shallow securing it in the centre and the splined tip of the half shaft protruding...

This morning I was about to sort the timing and just fiddled with the screwy advance bit on the dizzy and realised it was screwed to advance a fair bit. I havevn't ever touched that but I did overhaul the dizzy in January so perhaps it was a result of that. I took this right back until the...

I have now put in a new battery so eliminated that, also replaced the alternator to no avail. I fixed the exhaust manifold to exhaust downpipe hole (hopefully for the last time!) and the engine will at least now idle. I have WD40'd most obvious electrical bits and given easily accessed...

Thanks mate, I'll do that.

Thanks Evil, that's very useful. MOT due in two days so I guess I will just hope he is in a good mood and look to learn some welding skills thereafter. Good to know I can patch it up and not necesarilly need to replace completely.

plugs look carbon fouled to me... I have been avoiding doing the timing because I don't know what I'm doing but think I need to start that now because so much other stuff seems to be dependant on timing already being done I never really know if I'm fighting an impossible battle. I will check...

DrWatson: Idling (with the idle now set much higher until ALT light goes out) shows a reading of 13.5v on the battery. Reading falls to around 11-12v for a second when initially cranking but engine warm so starting immediately and reading then jumps back up.