Have you done any sort of sniff test and/or pressure test?? Im going to be the person of doom here and say I had these exact symptoms on my DSE and it turned out to be a cracked head - one new head later and all was cured - not saying this is your problem but it may be worth looking at. Also -...

All sounds normal to me - wait until the summer when its warmer, you will probably find when sitting in traffic that the temp gauge will move nearer the centre if not sit bang on 12. The initial roar from the fan at startup is also normal - you would know if the fan was fully locked on and...

You will get differing opinions on this but in MY opinion yes, its normal for the temp gauge to fluctuate, especially at colder times of the year like we are having now. As long as the fan isn't roaring away constantly as you drive you should be fine. Does the temp ever come up more towards...

ok, to be super clear - if you put the fuse in with the EAS delay timer REMOVED (so you just had the empty socket where it sits) then you have a short. The short could be at the socket where the delay timer plugs in. Look for the purple and red wire which goes to the socket. Trace the wire to...

I agree, you must have a short somewhere, however, it may be a bit difficult to trace. First things first, as it's in fault mode you can play about a bit and not worry too much about putting it into fault. F29 is a direct feed to the EAS Delay timer under the passenger seat. I would first...

I run the General Grabber UHP 255/55/18 tyre on my P38, can't fault them, they were allot less noisy (and a damn site cheaper) than the Goodyear Wrangler HP's that my P38 came with. Ive had this brand/model of tyre now for almost 2 years and have driven it in summer and winter, driving in snow...

Agreed - you to give more details so that at least people can try and help! -Wills :)

ok - first things first, the 35mph message indicates a hard fault. Without the diagnostic cable and software you get rid of this. Next, which fuse is it that has blown in the engine bay?? F29 or F35?? Lastly, what year P38 is it?? Give some more info and Im sure you will get some help...

The maxi fuses are the big fuses in the engine bay, im wondering whether one of them might of blown if you aren't getting anything on the dash. Have you disconnected the battery and then checked out all the different relays for signs of burnt terminals etc?? Lastly have you made sure ALL the...

hmmm - well first things first has the battery got a good charge?? Also check each and every fuse, both in the engine fusebox and then under the seat. Check the maxi-fuses as well. I would also check all the earthing points. Doesn't sound too brilliant if those are the only lights you get...

The joke of the entire thing is that the paperwork for all the Sureterm stuff arrived through the mail yesterday and I opened it and checked it all over. At the top of the summary page which lists everything you have got on the policy its got Norwich Union written all over it in fecking capital...

When you say the dash lights have dissapeared, what has EXACTLY dissapeared?? When you turn the ignition on to the second stage what lights have you got showing?? -Wills :)

just paid out for mine, just under £700 by a couple of quid. That's with 3 years NCB! Went with Sureterm Direct - I spent an entire afternoon ringing insurance companies and this was the absolute cheapest I could get it, I was with NFU but for some reason this year their prices shot up so went...

so the key works remotely now as well?? When you put the key in the ignition, on your year of P38 that should sync the key back up with the vehicle. Sounds like it has worked - guess you checked for a dodgy battery connection in the fob?? Glad its working again for you! -Wills :)

that looks like its for the whole switch pack plus the black surround bit, the part number I gave above is just for the switch pack itself so hopefully it may be just a bit cheaper. Wonder why that site reckons on their switch pack only being up to WA410481 :confused: -Wills :)

Have you tried plugging the RF receiver back in but not connecting the aerial lead to it?? -Wills :)

Not if you ave owned a TVR (or two) - friend had 1 and it was far worse in reliability than the P38, then one day, when it was working fine and he was cruising along, it cut out, he pulled over, next thing you know if was in flames and reduced to a burnt out wreck very quickly! -Wills :)

Yes, but for the moments it all works as it should you will absolutely 100% love it. You are taking a gamble buying a Range Rover, but then again you take a a gamble when you buy any car, no matter how good the SH is I think. The general rule of thumb, I think anyway, is, you have got to be...

:welcome2: may I suggest you try searching this problem as this question is CONSTANTLY asked over and over again. The answer is though that your window switch pack, the bit where all the switches are, is shagged and you will need a new one. Don't know the price of one from the dealers im...

When you were playing with the EAS Unlock software did you mess about with the calibration at all?? It sounds like a dodgy sensor to be honest BUT this isn't definite. It could be something else like the drive pack on the side of the valve block. You ARE parked on a flat level surface right...