I have just washed mine because it was filthy, now it looks tooooooo clean for a defender, will now have to go an get it dirty again!

Just my opinion by the way.

I had a freelander for 9 years, the hand brake test was always done on a standard two wheel roller tester, it never caused me any problems. It had 74000 on the clock when I bought it, I had to change the VCU around 85000 and when I sold it, it had done 149000 miles. So no, I don't think the...

I have my fingers crossed for you Rocky, i should think you are at the end of your tether by now.

If you check out the link that I posted earlier you will note that there is a 5mm tolerance limit in the VCU. So you could possibly get away with keeping a half worn tyre as the spare as long as you only use it to get yourself out of trouble and repair the flat ASAP.

Nodge68 is totally correct, check out this link below, I went by this when I was about to change my Freelander tyres and noticed there was a lot of disagreement as to what should be done...

Unfortunately for Rocky, the small O-ring may have been the cause of the problem from the start. Then again, he could have change it first he he'd known it was that and it could have been something else causing the original warm start problem. Thankfully it looks like he's up and running. Well...

pete198RRC you are correct, Yellow is constant live, Red is for accessory (ignition)

That looks like the turbo breather filter, only one end is connected to anything. They can cause problems if they are dirty inside, if its not been replaced that you are aware of then a new one would be a good idea. May or may not be the cause of your problem.

I used to own a 2004 Freelander 1 face lift before I bought my Defender. My opinion is BUY, not sure what to look out for on the Freelander 2 though, so get plenty of advice and look around before getting first one you see.

Cheers Rocky, makes sense to me now!

I don't quite understand, but surely if you have left the injector spill pipes connected to the other three injectors, then you will have fuel coming out of the disconnected return pipe at the sender end?

It's more likely that the regulator is broken, it has plastic knuckles on each end that the cable runs through and every now and then they break. You can get repair kits, but if not mechanically minded, you can get replacement regulators that aren't too expensive.

I have used them once on a rounded off bolt, worked well. if you soak the bolt with plenty of WD40 or something like that for about half an hour so that it can penetrate, can't see why it wouldn't work.

Try Irwin bolt grip grip tool, sets are quite cheap.

Rocky, sorry you wasted your time, i didn't know that it was that easy to tell the difference between the two as Nodge has pointed out. Hopefully you will soon be up and running again though.

Mine is forever wet under the mat on the passenger side, had enough trying to find out where the water is coming from, I do think now though that it is the windscreen surround. Anyway, I have now placed a rubber mat under the carpet, it stops the carpet getting wet and possibly rotting as a result.

Wasn't a foreign spec, maybe some were fitted and some weren't when they swapped them over. Who knows! However, may still be a good idea if Rocky has a look and checks that all is ok, wether it be a fuel sender/pump or just a fuel sender. Can't hurt to check.

I'm afraid I have to disagree, I owned a 2004 td4 on an 04 plate for 9 years and mine had the lift pump in the tank. I know because I had to take it out once to check it worked when mine stopped running. Sorry.

The face lift 2004 td4 does have two fuel pumps, you have the one behind the rear wheel that you have mentioned, but you also have a lift pump in the fuel tank, if this has stopped working the pump behind the wheel will not be able to pump the fuel to the injectors.