They were servicable for the time and kept the Land Rover bean counters happy, but there's far superior solutions this century; Econoseal, Superseal, Deutsch, Kostal, etc.

I had all sorts of problems with the back lights. Brake lights work, tail lights not. One indicator working, the other not. Reverse not working. Fog worked, then didn't. I bought a new 18" earth strap, installed that, and ran a 14 gauge wire from that to the other side of the rear. Then routed...

That should help.

Relatively cheap compared to most other vehicles on the road. In my experience, insuring a Series or Defender has been significantly cheaper than any other vehicle I've owned. And as miktdish states, yes, being handy with the spanners is ideal. The cheaper the Defender, the more mainenance it...

Insurance will be relatively cheap on a Defender compared to most other vehicles, but what you save there you'll pay on road tax ~£735 tax, and lots of maintenance. And if you're worried about the Jimney "Having problems", then you've seen nothing compared to a Land Rover. Defender owners are...

Also worth asking SP4x4. I'm pretty sure they manufacture LR wings, so they clearly have that part in house, it's just the only part of the wing they don't list. Probably little demand for it.

You don't have a wiring diagram?

You'll have to identify if you have a 2 wire, 3 wire or 4 wire alternator. If you have the 3 or 4 wire then the alternator will detect that the battery is full and you won't necessarily see a 14v charge being sent to the battery while running. If you have a 2 wire then there is no Sensor...

Difficult to say, which probably explains the lack of responses you're getting. If you put the seals in wrong then it could be user error? Did you bleed it? It might be best have a mechanic check and/or install the pump and see if the problem still presents itself.

Electrical tape be the work of the devil! https://tinyurl.com/ybkp9kwf

@lynall This it? https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Spring-Height-Measurments.pdf

Who the hell is putting your rivets in. In 30 odd years I've never seen a rivet rattle loose.

Like Tottot said, remove the covers off the rear load area so you have access to the wiring. Get yourself some contact cleaner. Check all the black wires are in good shape and not broken or frayed. Disconnect them one by one and clean them thoroughly with contact cleaner. Go crazy. See where...

99/100 it's a bad Earth, My rear lights all share a common earth, one on each side. So if several are flickering that's where I'd start.

You only use your horn for a half second once in a blue moon. Is a relay really necessary? My horn failed so I just hooked up a High/Low from a BMW to the existing wiring.

Come on matey, it's common sense is to remove the belt to clean the pulleys, I shouldn't have to draw a picture for the obvious. Note: I'm dissenting on Dayco, I think they're prone to squeak more than most. Just my 2 cents. I prefer Gates or skf where possible,

Um, why not?

Clean the pulleys with brake cleaner.

15w40 is fine. Doesn't matter what oil you used there's always a knowall handy to say you're doing it wrong. Did you change it at 100 miles and again at 500 miles. They're not solid rules for breaking in, but pretty good practice, certainly the 500 miles change. That's some pretty deep...

Mines riveted. I can't say that rattling has ever been an issue. The problem with bolts is they're steel. Rivets are aluminium.