Like this http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=360394412875 If you've pulled the engine might need to extend the bar, a length of scaffold works

Would have to be thick sheet steel, if the pulley has 4 holes (same as 300tdi) then why not pick 2 of the holes next to eachother and bolt direct to the bar?? The correct LR tool for the 300 is a ring with 4 holes for bolting to the pulley and a long bar welded to it - I have one but they are pricey

Get a big piece of angle, drill 2 holes in the middle and bolt it to the pulley - simples. Had to do the same to my boat engine to pull the harmonic balancer

bolt a large piece of angle iron to the pulley to lock it down?

Confused, are you trying to remove the front crank pulley bolt? If so, can't you lock the damper?

Thanks for the offer, but mines a disco 1 with original tdi lights

But dangerous unless fitted properly, in which case would probably cost more than I paid for my disco

Ok so I pulled the speaker from drivers side door, admittedly it wasn't connected!!! :der:

here's the wiring, all looks in order? :confused: I was wondering whether the head unit is at fault, but if the tweaters are working on the A-pillar then that suggests the front door speakers are being fed???

LHS is new bulb, RHS old. I am impressed, photo doesn't give them justice

This might not apply to disco 2 but.. I spent a lot of time hunting the source of the leaking roof when I first got the disco, re-sealed both sunroof frames, all the guttering, checked the drain tubes, sealed the windscreen and both alpine windows but it was STILL leaking. Turned out it was the...

Obviously I tried using it! But haven't put a multimeter on it

nope, the slide switch on side of the light itself?

It doesn't work, swapping bulbs with the rear(that does work) didn't help. Looking at the fuse symbols under the steering column I couldn't see anything that looks like interior light. The big chunky fuses under bonnet look to be all in one piece. Any suggestions? Thanks

Cheers mate all sorted and the leak has now gone!! Well other than the pain in the a$$ oil cooler pipe that connects to the rad but that always seems to take me a few attempts to get a good seal without it dripping. Next job nearside swivel and shaft seals then I'm good for the winter :)

Can anyone advise asap? Thanks!!!!

Help! The o-ring that fits behind crank gear, should that be fitted to the shaft first or to gear before sliding on. If to the shaft, does that give a good enough seal to stop leaks, if to the gear how do you get it past the woodruff key?? Thanks

They recondition my fob did a good job still working fine after 3 years

Not a big job to replace mate, just make sure you set the gaps correctly I ended up snapping a rocker doing that wrong!