Just ordered one of these myself - my one rusted through and parted company just before it joins the mid-pipe. Is currently in the back :rolleyes: Should just be able to undo bolts to take old one off and refit to new one, really simple. Can use a bit of exhaust paste but mine was just metal to...

This. And people who don't realise a 22 year old Land Rover will not comfortably pull away as fast as their modern car. Also those blonde women always with sunglasses who drive those SUV-type Merc/BMW/Audi monsters like go-karts.

Weather and climate change - Met Office :)

I've a set of TRs they're pretty good, quiet and pretty grippy. Haven't been anywhere very muddy with them but general off road use they cope fine, seem pretty good in the snow too.

Tis very good stuff, have used it for quite a lot of things - always sticks like concrete provided you follow the instructions on the back. :)

Go and try holding the key halfway between when the electrics come on and when it starts cranking. Turn the key to position 2 (electrics on) then start turning it slowly against the spring and look for the light and stop and hold the key in that position, as long as the light is lit the plugs...

19J wiring doesn't bring the glow-plugs on on an automatic timer like the 200TDi and onwards, you have to hold the key on the spring between positions II and III then the dash light should light up - glow plugs use the lamp with a choke symbol on it (bit like |/|). The plugs will stay lit for...

Had belt done on my 200 back in August - bought everything OEM as I have heard horror stories of Britpart tensioners failing causing the belt to loosen or run out of alignment and shred itself. :eek: IMO would always pay more for OEM stuff for such important bits. OEM tensioner was about £22...

Refers to the 'new engined' Defenders, more specifically to the post-2007 Ford Duratorq 2.4L that was codenamed 'Puma'. Don't know if it specifically still applies to the 2.2L engines that are now fitted but the name seems to have carried on. With my seat fully back I don't have any problems...

Am about 6'1 and don't find it much a problem, little lack of elbow room on the right side when the window is closed but doesn't bother me much. Tend to find it pretty comfortable, but I generally prefer the Defender driving position - sitting with your feet/legs more over the pedals then...

It'll still leak, fall apart and clunk. Your 300TDi will become 'old reliable' :p Be interesting to get your thoughts on it, some things I like and others I don't about them, was a funny sight parking my old farm one next to a shiny black 10 plate yesterday.

Does transfer box still have the sticker/plate on it (look on the rear of it, below the filler plug) - if so it'll tell you the ratio which will tell you what box it is, 1.410 is the standard Defender ratio, if it's 1.2 then it's probably from a Discovery. Disco cases also need a mod to the...

Brilliant cheers :) Will add it to the list of stuff to do eventually, just put new oil in it so don't want to be draining it out just yet.

Thanks James - what's involved in taking up the play in the shaft if there is any? Is it a fairly easy in-situ job or is it a bit more involved?

Could this cause the transfer box to 'rattle'? After a long drive at constant high speed i.e. dual carriageway when coming off the power and at the point where you are neither accelerating or decelerating my transfer box rattles horrendously. Continue to come off the power and start decelerating...

I had a recon LT77 from them, tis a good box but second can be a pain sometimes. Good service but yes, aren't the cheapest - but again I have heard they offer very good service even when problems arise out-of-warranty.

It's like Mechanno :) Galv chassis is £1045, brake pipes and suspension bushes probably aren't that much so your looking at around £1400 labour I would say. Though as others have said there are at least a few years left in your chassis if you take it to someone who has the skills to patch it up.

Tin foil and superglue special :p I recommend pressbrake - he's worth the drive!

Best check through drivetrain and suspension and use process of elimination, so much can clunk/thud/bang on these. :rolleyes: Most common as said are UJs, halfshafts and drivemembers. Diffs and transfer box can develop play. Had LR fixed the mainshaft problem by now? Good one to check...

Should both be the same - same set up for all of them, high and low then to the left for diff lock. They are all permanent 4WD, what you described sounds like the selectable 4WD found on most pickups...