BTW, if anyone wants the map pocket formers in post-#31 above, they are going free. (sorry to hijack Andy)

You probably want the marks here, rather than on the damper !!

Step-1: Buy the DC Clamp meter recommended by Alibro above. Step-2: Don't try putting a multimeter in-line with the battery feed unless you know what you're doing. Use the clamp meter & note the value after the car is off & locked for at least 10mins.. Step-3: Pull specific fuses / relays...

Surely should be same part both sides ? Just make sure you get the correct thread size & connector type.

err . . actually three causes. 1. Its either that the valve is actually stuck closed. 2. Or its a faulty height sensor & ECU confuses the reason 3. Or intermittent connection in the driver pack connector, i.e. if the driver pack cannot trigger the valve, then the ECU assumes it's stuck !!

Prop off is easy, even on axle stands, but do the one-wheel test first !!

@nevillen Microcat finds the VIN. Search driveshaft part number using that ?

Do they make the roof spikey ??

The "approximately a year old" comment from the seller probably means someone cleaned the battery to make it look newer !! +1 do the simple overnight voltage check above with the battery disconnected. Also getting Halfords to check its capacity for you can be worthwhile..

@James Brake as others have said rebuild or replace with another 1.8 is the easiest approach. Then sort the IRD & Prop, etc. A donor car would help you a lot & potentially provide many bits you're gonna need or break off-road. Also this forum site is awash with friendly banter, so best get...

Ignored as requested.

ok I stand corrected. I do wonder how it would behave if the disco sensors did provide pulses, especially if the front & rerar rate per revolution were different ? I guess the ABS/TCS would treat it as spinning or slipping wheels - a bit like it does in gear with all four wheels off the...

Essentially it’s getting the preload on the lifters correct. If it’s wrong it impact compression & engine won’t be at its best.

You could search the forum or google it. It’s been described many times by peeps changing cams, lifters or doing head skim.

And what is the difference ?

Wrong number of pulses would make the speedo wrong, plus front & rear wheel mismatch. ABS fault implies the sensor cannot see the reluctor. Definitely. Supplier might have swapped them for P38 version if they were unused, but probably not now. My guess is the sleeve on the P38 one is...

Check the connector underneath the valve block. The connector body may appear tight, but the socket contacts open up slightly over time due to heat & cold cycles in the engine bay. Intermittent connections will cause "valve stuck" faults when there's nothing wrong with the valves. Sensor...

Just to add to this, if the engine is on 122000 do the basics before anything like ECU mods, i.e. Replace main & big end bearings, piston rings, etc. Clean up & relap the valves. Look at a mild tune cam (which should not require ECU mods). Also check & replace the hydraulic lifters...

@petebowling when posting a thread, at least select s suitable car model prefix. Makes our crystal ball gazing a little easier.

Most cars use signals from ABS for the speedo.