I read that they were all bad. I then changed the thermostat in the engine and the heat coming out of the duct holes is at the "hotness" where you can hold your hand under it, but any hotter, and you would not want to. As the OP notes, however, they're simple things - The curious point for me...

I've just got some alloy layered to fit flush in the hole on mine (and another with a border to cover the joint on the inside). When I get around to it I'm going to bond the whole lot in and be shot of it for good. (I have a non sunroof liner to add also though)

If they're in riv nuts, my money is on the riv nut spinning before the bolt remains come free. Before you spend a whole bunch of time on it, I would suggest making sure that your new fuel component mates up to the fuel lines perfectly still, as it's a possibility that you may have to mess...

I can't work out where you are. Clicking on your profile tells me I'm not worthy to know! I'm 250 miles from home currently. Who knows, you may be just (well, 50 miles I guess) down the road!

Id happily take it here. But my "here" and your "there" are probably miles apart. Id just chuck the in the boiler tank. It would dilute away to nothing. Edit : the boiler here is configured to run on 35sec fine. A riello 28sec may get upset I guess.

If it only runs when other stuff is off, could it be that the fan motor is trying to ground though somthing that is being pulled "high" when the other stuff is running? I would start by running a temporary ground from the heater, to a known good point, and seeing what happens.

I've got a pickup back that's too far gone to be salvageable. I was just going to scrap it - it's been offroaded and the dents have gone beyond dents and turned into tears... It's not even worth plating it. But the front end of it is ok, where the bulkhead is. How much difference is there...

I've got a bulkhead to do - Loads of the repair panels are now powdercoated for some reason. I want to get the bulkhead dipped when it's done, so want bare panels. I mailed YRM, who always used to claim that they made all the parts themselves, thinking I could just get one without...

I dont know the lt85, but, basically, you want to adjust the springs so as the "neutral" mid point is in line with 3rd and 4th, and not wobbling about all over the place. So, to then get it into gear in 3rd or 4th, it should be a simple / basic shift forwards or backwards from the place that...

I have a slickshift for the r380. I purchased it new as my partner complained about the sloppy gear change. I then adjusted the box without fitting it... And the slick shift is still in its box, never having been fitted. What im saying from the above is that all the devices do is compress the...

Im guessing its gearbox is the lt77 - they make one for them, i think.

Pressure washer. But then just your standard off the shelf gunwash / thinners. They (probably) won't touch the original paint but will the new stuff.

External cage wanted for 110 station wagon. They come up on eBay now and again but the sellers have always forgotten to remove the "hidden" structural parts. I'm in Devon, but have a working vehicle, some of the time...

The top bit seems easy to recover. Ive not personally done it, but a (real life) friend did his a couple of months ago without any real bother.

You can get them in the fiberglass version by, is it, laselle or someone? I have an original one here but I don't think it's pretty.

Apologies, I skim read. I had a 300 that chewed up the key on the crank sprocket, and my head was on that. You can run a cold engine for a while without the water pump. On the 200 does the pump come off with the timing chest cover? Even if it does, which I wasn't aware it did, you could...

They're about 38" or so, right? 16+11+11? Might fit, but probably even more unobtainable than the 255/100 xzls. Do you have a massive pile of them, or was it just a suggestion?

I had bar grips years ago - they were so grim on the road. I've had a bit of a look for 37" R15 and there's the Nankang that you mention, which are nice and cheap, and some Maxis, but not much else. ...and both are full on mud terrain. If I go down to 35" R15 the range increases - I mean I...

The damper isn't a mega precision item. Personally I would try and modify the key (weld a bit onto the key) to suit the worn crank, rather than the other way around.

Exactly as lynall says above. Just fill the filter before you screw it in (not with all the crud poured out of the old filter!) and start it up. If... You have no clean diesel to fill the new filter with, you need to mess about with the lift pump, but, if you can fill the filter, you just...