a few thing i have read When I done my test never used socket on hub nut this might be better way to test it To test Park car on the flat. Hand brake off. IN FIRST GEAR. Chock front wheels. Jack up one side of the rear. On the central hub nut of the lifted wheel, fit a socket...

So what are you saying? A new vcu slips the same as on old vcu one that has done 80k miles till the point it seizes up The point is we all know the vcu will slip and produce drag But does that drag increase the more miles the vcu does probably yes So at what point do we say the vcu as no...

Yes that sounds like a better test If I drove on full lock then dipped the cluck mine would stop quite quickly Don’t know whether it would roll back to suggest it is very tight Will give it a go and see So the vcu starts life pretty loose (not to lose) and progressively gets tighter...

The point is when does the vcu need changing as mentioned before the vcu rarely seizes so just because the vcu turns don’t mean to say its any good all I am saying is a new vcu would turn easier than one thats done 80k miles so my freelander thats done 80k miles will have more strain...

As I have said before I have driven loads of brand new freelander and this fault was not detected by me in my own freelander when I notice it most is when I am pulling in to a parking space on full lock It really slows down My vcu has done 80k so it must need replacing when I turn on full lock...

It might be that the vcu gets harder and harder to turn till it Seizes so the feeling as though the brakes are on gets worse and worse but when it is new it is ok

Some years ago I had a job at gaydon It was to drive freelanders around all day long I had to clock up 1000 miles on each one ready for the press release I drove every model there was and I can say I never felt as though the brakes were on when turning on full lock I own a frelander 1.8...

The bush will be there long after the freelander has gone but at lest I will have pice of mind that It will not bother me again

Thanks to everybody for their advice going to replace bush with Polyurethane one they last 3 times longer than the normal ones

When you get the mounting off how easy is it to take the old bush out and replace it with a Polyurethane one

Hi I need to do mine so you never droped the subframe then what front flange did you bend to move the diff over you just replaced the old bush with a new one was it easy to replace I looked on ebay and it said you need a vice or press to put the new bush in

How do I get to the Qs and As bit cant find it

Hi From my picture you can see my bush coming through the chassis (painful) where it’s rotted I think I need to weld a plate on the chassis I can undo the mounting bolt and tighten it up so I think that is ok Need advice on how to drop sub frame a bit Do I undo all the 4 mounting bolts and drop...

Have you checked out the back brakes

Ive Heard Its even Harder to get Back on is this true

Can you take it off without taking the bars off if you can hows it done might try it on mine

Hi I tested mine the other day and with a big screwdriver in the uj behind the vcu I could turn it, it was very tight though I moved it abou 1/2 inch but as i say with quite a lot of force but I was inly using a big screwdriver ,If you was using a long bar I think it would move more easy

Its might be down as much as it can go try lifting it up to see if it moves

Can the rear mounts be changed without taking the diff out

What i did notice when I had the car jacked up is when I moved the back wheel bacwards and forwards the rear diff moved up and down a bit is the mount prown to go