There's a lot of guff on the net about em being up to 30 degrees out!? The markings that is

Will do that too

Yeh yeh. I here you. Which is why I'll take out plug 1 and find the compression stroke. Once I have that I can mark tdc rather than going from the pulley marks which must be wrong. I must be on the exhaust stroke at the mo, thus 180 degrees thought crossed my mind. Just trying to work out what...

Ill forget the 180. if i find true dead centre and ignore the marks on the pulley and make my own..

Ill take no 1 plug out and find compression stroke with my finger. i can't understand how it would run being so far out. it runs and revs. doesn't sound like other vids online but it revs...

Thanks James. Manual says... Turn the distrubutor driveshaft so that the rotor arm position is 30 degrees anti-clockwise from number one cylinder HT lead position in the distributer cap. Fit the distributor to the engine, ensuring that the oil pump drive driveshaft slot engages in the end...

Either way. Manual says dizzy rotor should be contacting with chamber 1. It's not . It's 180 out. So before that's corrected (unless the manual is wrong) there is no point messing with anything else.?? Can someone confirm tdc should have rotor pointing at point 1??

Ok so I got my v8 running tother week with much help from fanatic. I decided to mess with the carb balancing this weekend and teach myself something new... While I was doing this I just couldn't get a nice idle... On further reading of my manual I came to the conclusion that the ignition...

All of it loud... Even drowns out the screaming wife and disgruntled neighbours!

Thanks tacr2man. Will relocate before putting on road. I don't get any fule return from the carbs so couldn't understand if the pressure is too high why there was no return. Regulator is set at 3psi. The pump makes a right racket all the time, can you get quiet ones?

I think I sorted it. Left her running for 5-10 mins. Large pipe from top to top or rad get warm first. Rad gets warm. Bottom larger pipe gets warm last. Stat doesn't come on because there ain't one. Prev owner rigged a switch in the dash. I'll get a stat and make sure it trips the fans.

The large pipe that goes to the intake manifold gets warm close to the manifold. Bottom large pipe is cold.

Ok. Realised I had the two small connectors backwards. One from center of manifold is for air locks. Usually blocked off. The top one goes back to the bottle. . I guess injust wanted to make sure the pump was functioning. How can I make sure the stat opens?

It is a malpazzi filter king fanatic! I have it set to 2psi. Have disconnected it and just using gravity fed while I sort things. Had the plugs out and they are black. She will only start with choke on.

Possibly. Here's a picture of the pump, filter and reg. https://www.dropbox.com/s/q3e0rw5n811b4d0/Photo%2005-05-2014%2009%2005%2042.jpg Think it might be pressurising again. Oil is starting to smell a bit like petrol. :-(

Ok, on engine cranking I'm not getting any water rushing back into the bottle so thinking it's possibly wrong. Maybe why the old engine was ruined from the previous owner. I'm just cranking it over at the moment. Have a look at the pic. Is anything...

I had an issue with the engine I removed in that after half hour or so the engine oils would smell of petrol. That said, the engine was fecked... That's why it's been swapped. I think it's a 5-8 bar but the fule reg is set to 2 bar. I'm just not getting any fuel overflow that's all..

Just turn the radio up . Worked for me ;-)

Very noisy. I have one and a 50litre 14cfm compressor that runs all the time to keep up while it's in use. You need lots of air but it does save lots of time.

Hi all, I'm worried about over pressurising fuel into my carbs with my modern fule pump. I have installed a malpazzi fuel reg but still a little concirned. Am I right In thinking that if too much fuel is pumped in it should just come back out of the float bowl over flow??? If so I think in...