Yes, you can for test just the ride heights might be a bit different but if you connect it and the compressor will not run like with the original you know that's it. If nothing changes you should swap the fusebox... what ever you swap disconnect tne battery's negative lead first and reconnect it...

Hi, which fuse exactly? No, at this point the first suspect is the fusebox or in the worst case the SLABS ECU unless it's a wiring issue somewhere and that coud be a nightmare.

Usually such body parts are obsolete these days, though if you find one in stock it will be quite expensive, google out the p/n based on THIS

If the gauge went above normal means it was too hot already cos it leaves the middle at 120*C and the electric fan kicks in at 110 by default, so if it ran full time means there was more than 110*C and that will kill the engine on a long run... IMO you have a cooling issue cos it's not supposed...

No probs at all, others did it as well

Yes, you can't acees the matrix other way

That's why i said to undo both pipes and join them together, not hard to do, all you need is a short piece of pipe to insert between them and use the existing clips

The matrix has permannent coolant flow and the heating/cooling is managed by the servomotors which are opening/closing the flaps, when cooling is set the flaps for the heater core are supposed to be closed and all the air should go through the cooling evaporator, a real specialist should fix it...

the man mentioned it: I used it myself too once( THIS ) and felt some slight improvement but not more than with Liqui Moly or Wynn's.

That's a classic sign of low gas level, get it regassed at a specialist

Which is safer than any of the newer CAN-bus technilogy these days which are easyer to be acessed by ”specialists” with proper scanners who dont even know how these old security systems were conceived. There is almost zero possibility for an immobilised(locked with active alarm) D2 on factory...

Then read the code with nanocom or hawkeye(i dont know other tools to be 100% reliable with the Td5 engine management) but as long as the EML comes on it can be only the crank sensor or TPS unless the ECU is at fault.

Not uncommon for those housings to be cracked see this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/oil-filter-housing-cracking.392305/

Hi, those codes seem to come from some generic scantool, anyway if it's 10P engine and automatic box the main problem is with the crank sensor or it's wiring/plug hence the EML warning and CAN fault code and the MAF fault is irrelevant unless you still have EGR fitted, if it's 15P the MAF can...

YWB10004L

I dont know what's the real problem but as long as they react to the fob it's nothing electrical that's certain

If you hear an activity in the latch while you give any command with the fob or dash switch the problem is definitely not electrical and you might have bought two "tired" actuators which gave up the gost at the same time, it can happen with used parts, if it's absolute silence in the latches on...

yes seems so, quite strange... then measure resistances and compare cos even if the solenoid works it might have a resistance out of the diagnostic protocol's range, the whole diagnostic guide is attached

Yes, then if no click double check by splicing into the next solenoid's wire to make sure the click is audible(i tried on D2 and i heard it) so if the RHF doesnt click and the other does you know but if no sound on any solenoids compare resistances between ground and those wires and if...

Find the wire which ges to it from the modulator's connector and splice into it with +12V cos afaik the earth is common for all and if it clicks it should be OK, or find the wire for other solenoid, measure resistance and compare if you see what i mean