I pulled into a Shell station recently only for a Jaguar XJ driver to screech to a halt at the pump, jump out in a mad rush still on his mobile, he then put a tennis ball under the handle and sat back in his car while it put £95 of fuel in his car. When he got out i enquired how long the XJ...

On a 2004 TD4 Model i would exclude the following: Usual things Diff mounts: Probably not/ after 40,000 miles maybe (NOT EXPENSIVE TO FIX) VCU:2004 Models should have no problems IRD:As above Chassis cracks:Very Rare. badly worn tyres:As always with any car. clonks: Its a 4x4 they will all...

Petrol versions can suffer the dreaded HG failure in particular the K series 1.8. Some have no problems at all, its mainly due to school run mums doing short journeys and driving the engine hard while its cold, the Freelander is no light weight vehicle. They tend to stop it just as its getting...

Never spit my dummy out but some of the posts some months back where getting silly. You lot need telling on occasions, i firmly believe a full health check for some of you is a must :D Ohh and the wife still has her gaylander and still loves it, my toy is the Black Saab. I narely frogto hosw...

You lot need a full health check up. It will be your rear diff mounts as mentioned in the MHM post, its a 1/2 hour job with a ramp and abour £20 for the bushes. Nothing too drastic.

Class whta esle can i say: Fantastic post. Thakn god yuo had a wantery in plaec.

Try covering it under a different name and address and see what the price comes out as. It may well be logged as you the driver not the car, dont the AA say the member is covered not the actual vehicle.

The wiring is in the lower console, they supply one loom for the car no matter what model it is then just leave the plugs disconnected if certain options are not on a particular model. Add the 2 switches in the console, the wiring plugs are already inside, connect the plugs which you will see...

Take a look under your existing seats and you will see the wiring is already in place for the heaters within the leather seats, you need to add the switches on your lower dash and connect the plugs up under the seats and away you go.

Its condensation from your Heater Matrix (Your car must have A/C), as they say, ' they all do that sir '. Dont worry about it. Zippy

Could also be an induction pipe split, it causes the car to suck air in after the MAF sensor and the car ECU just adds more fuel and up your revs go. Fuel injected cars of a certain age nearly always have a split hose that can cause a similair problem to yours.

The Turbo on the TD4 does not kick in at 1500 rpm more like 2300, or upwards depending on each car. If it kicked in that low down it would run out of boost by 3000 Rpm.

I can get the starter reconditioned with a 12 month warranty for £40 with a same day return of the starter. The slight problem is i have to remove it and her to be without the car for the day whilst its repaired, but its that or it failling without notice.

It failled again this morning, i removed the engine cover and tapped the starter with an Irish Screwdriver and it started fine after. Now the search for a starter today.

They are having a laugh arent they. Advertising for Free is taking the p#ss somewhat.

MY02 TD4 Problem first started on Saturday morning, when you put the key in to start it you get a click and thats it, after 3 attempts it turned over perfect and fired as normal, all day it was fine after repeated stop starts, again this morning it clicked and nothing, i do have all dash lights...

Dont use the ball bearing, how will you get it out if you ever want too ? Take the pipe off and block it with a screw and away you go. By the way is the ball bearing on Flea Bay Gold ? £2.99 is a joke. Zippy

My wifes EGR valve on her car has been blocked off for over a year without any issues at all (Touch wood) the inlet is stIll clean which it wasnt before i blocked the EGR. I know its for better emmisions and the enviroment and all that but if the good ol US of A wont sign a treaty to reduce its...

Have you replaced the sensor (Petentionometer) on your accelertor pedal as suggested by Ming, with the problem you describe that is what is faulty.

Remove the rubber boot from around your gear lever you will see the connection to the switch on the gear stick, it has 2 wires running too it, its very common for one or both of these to become disconnected and thus showing no light on the dash when its engaged. Its a 10 minute job with a...