Sounds like you've got lucky there. Check rocker shaft studs are still firmly in the head. It is possible to bend conrods, but I would expect much more damage to pushrods before anything like that happened. Either way, it's ridiculous that has happened 7K miles after the belt was changed. I'm...

Look up through the wading plug hole with torch? Should be able to see if belt is not there or is off the pulley. Alternatively take rocker cover off, remove rocker shaft and turn engine by hand. Might as well check if any of the pushrods are bent as well

Yep, seen that. The wheels were stolen and it was left propped on a farm jack, that's all. The rest of it had been removed by the owner because he is in the middle of an engine swap. Should be noted though that he did have locking wheel nuts on, left the key socket inside unlocked though I...

You sure it's not a propshaft U/J or wheel bearing? 129Nm is correct torque.

What's that colour called? Looks great!

My TD5 front axle is like that, and I've seen other TD5s with same setup. So yes, they probably are.

Sure you fitted the right seal? There's more than one type, and one of them won't fit properly if you have a certain diff flange.

Stc4382g

At some point (maybe TD5?) they changed to that setup so that left and right hand drive axles are basically the same.

Cable should be galvanised so shouldn't rust for a good while yet.

Takes 2 minutes to remove, might as well whip it off and put some decent silicon gasket sealant on it see if that fixes the problem.

Definitely within 30cm of the steering column mounts, windscreen frame, door hinge mounts, brake servo etc? I can't say for sure as I am most definitely not an MOT tester, but common opinion does seem to be that it's a structural area.

Very dodgy, can't imagine a 2006 plate is that rusted. Also look at his completed items, he's tried to sell a similar thing before but claimed it was a 1971 ID from a TD5 defender ???

Replaced clutch slave, removed clutch pedal assy in order to change master cylinder, got the replacement engine block out of the car ready to be built up - coated every smooth surface I can get to in used engine oil to stop it rusting in the mean time.

Could be, could be tracking. How careful were you to make sure that didn't change? What was the previous steering damper?

Just because you haven't done it doesn't mean the previous owner hasn't! Most 300TDi have been tweaked in some way or other I would definitely be looking at timing and fueling etc before going for a full rebuild, you'll get into some serious money doing that!

Oil burning on startup could be valve stem seals. Grey smoke is probably just injection pump turned up too high?

At the end of the day it depends on whether you want a decent land rover or not. You could quite easily cover every rust hole on it in body filler, paint over and breeze through MOTs. Repair shops will be able to do it, depending on how bad it is the bulkhead doesn't necessarily need to come...

Urgh. No. According to Mr. MOT man, bulkhead is very much structural. Don't start doing **** repairs like filling rust holes with body filler, you will just end up with some piece of crap deathtrap land rover. You should drill the rivets out of those repair panels and see what is behind them...

I think you're focusing on the wrong bit here, on the corner that's just a bit of paint bubbling. The metal in third picture won't stand up to a gentle prod from a screwdriver, no need for a hammer. The paint bubbling on the corners looks to be on existing repair panels to me that have been...