There were two or three on ebay within the past couple of weeks. One has been up a few times, almost mint blue one, 2.25 engine, very high price tag. I'm pretty sure the hicap tub will go on a standard chassis as someone fitted one to a 1-Ton series III easily enough, that was factory built...

I'd say the same about my hydraulic - I'd love to do a side-by-side comparison test of the two types.

Glad to be of help.

In theory they stop over-extension of the shock absorbers, and presumably act in a similar (if much less progressive) manner to anti-roll bars. They were fitted for a reason but are often overlooked.

If they are 5.5" rims they are early long wheelbase rims and can take upto a 7.50x16 tyre. SWB rims were only 5" and can only take upto a 6.50x16 and are too narrow for the infamous 205s. There should be a part number stamped on there somewhere... This should help you identify them.

It will apply to vehicles built before 1960 and does not come into effect until November this year.

Depends on the axle, depends on the wheelbase. I think Craddocks sell them, try their website or ring up and tell them what vehicle it is for.

So far as I know the chassis is the same as a normal 109". They are not very common but they do come up on ebay every now and then. The rarest version was the Stage 1 V8 hi-cap, I think they only made 14.

Not entirely sure what you mean by standard looking - I assume you mean you want a winch that is "in-period" with the vehicle. In which case anything bar a modern electric winch would be correct. The warn electric winch was available from about 1974 if not earlier. Mechanical and hydraulic drum...

A tirfor is a hand winch, not vehicle mounted.

It would depend on what kind of winching you want to do. A capstan is good for jobs like moving logs around. It is not really a self-recovery winch, especially as it does not have an attached wire. You need a seperate rope, and ideally the capstan needs two people to operate, although it can be...

Not if it was a factory built van, in which case the OP will need to fit cotter pins to hold the tailgate closed. It wouldn't have mountings for the tailgate chains either.

Fog lamps 100% not required on a series 2, same as reversing lamps. Well done on your MOT pass!

Who says you have to lock it up to keep it in good nick? You just use it and look after it...a vehicle deteriorates when it is used and abused with no rectification done. You can use one just as intended (whatever that might mean) without causing any damage anyway.

Completely depends on who is buying, I for one would never ever buy a Land-Rover in anything but original spec as far as possible. I don't mind like-for-like replacement but I just lose interest once I see the modifications, especially if they are not easily reversed. The highest priced vehicles...

Not quite, they were earlyish production 80"s modified by the British Army, but they were not pre-production models.

I disagree regarding value - a vehicle in original paint, in original spec will always be more desirable than "yet another" Tdi converted series. Original-spec machines are very, very thin on the ground these days.

Actually some were built RHD when new.

You are thinking of the centre-steer prototype, which had a Jeep chassis (and most of the running gear too I think). The 48 pre-production vehicles had Land-Rovers own type chassis, but galvanised rather than painted.

It was probably never a IIA to begin with. Why oh why people risk to much just to save a couple of hundred quid a year is beyond me. The best thing is to check the axle, engine and gearbox numbers if you can, especially as axles and gearboxes rarely get changed - if they have numbers beginning...