It sat for long time, then after it was stored in a shed. At first glance the door sills at the back and in the front have rust holes and 1 wheel arch. But then again it is not for restoring only to recover some parts because it’s the same year as mine.

ok thanks for the input guys. A lot of things to consider, i didn't think about the electronics. In the meantime I went looking at another p38 for spares :) guess I got the bug. Not good enough to restore because it needs welding but it is the same year car as mine with more or less the same...

Hi again guys This time I want to pick your brains for some information about the p38 automatic gearbox. I know I have an issue with my current transfer case, I bought a 2nd hand one and I brought it to a local specialist. That was 2 month ago and I’m getting a bit impatient. In the meanwhile...

Very true, in retrospect it was good it happened and especially at home and not somewhere on the road. Now I understand it better there will be less paranoia 😀

I don’t know the root cause of the problem. I changed to the mobiletron rectifier just before all this happened to get a higher charging voltage. The only thing I know is that it happened while trying to lock/unlock the car but that went a little awkward. So i think it is of my own doing.

I had this problem before the engine disabled issues. The transfer box is tired, there are 313kkm on the clock. I found metal in the oil and the oil was very dark. Also it makes a lot noise especially when it’s hot.

Well it doesn't break the bank. I've read it would be better to replace both front latches. I'm glad there is an alternative to the original land rover ones that are quite expensive. If somebody can point me in the right direction for a lhd MG passenger latch for the p38 I'd appreciate it.

Well yeah on to the next repairs 😊 transfer case needs replacing

I set it LHD now it was actually already supposed to be like that

Yes that was the first thing I did 😊

As we speak the car is out of the alarm state and can be started! First I want to thank everybody who chimed in with information and sharing their experiences. Now the solution I hear you think. So all the drivers door latch tests returned good results both old and new. Symptoms: Only...

Hi guys I have found the problem finally!

Found a few minutes tot re-test. Both old and new work well and pass all tests.

Understood, I did the latch test with the sheet from Marty and i have normal results. Also I verified the cabling from the latch towards the outstation, I have good continuity. Then I did the latch test again measuring directly on the outstation. I can measure what I do with the cdl and the...

I’ll check the lead later today. I have another question. If the becm is configured for rhd but it’s actually lhd with the keylock on the left will that be of influence for syncing the fob? Or disabling the immobiliser altogether?

Ok to answer the question for the message on the dash with the key in the ignition. It does say “key in ignition” when opening the right door, passenger side for me but not for the left one. However I think that might have something to do with configuration in the becm.

I’ll check it tomorrow to wet outside right now.

Yes I tried to do the syncing as you described. I don’t think I get a message on the dash straight away for door open or something else. But I need to check again.

Yes I also checked the connections on the fusebox that are labelled becm. I have clean earth points also. I think I’ll have to recap and go over some stuff again. Somebody I believe pwood? said that when you disconnect the battery the car should actually remain open if it was open before a...

I might make a short video about it and share it with you. But basically the becm makes some clicking noise. There is already a message upon opening the menu that the becm Has received a valid code. When you press clear, a menu opens to tell you that it clears its memory. Afterwards it starts...