1) Sounds like US Rental cars - they always beel when locking & unlocking ? 2) Don't open the door wiht the key - use the FoB.

The compressor clutch error is saying the HEVAC is not seeing the expected current from the compressor clutch. Low gas opens the dual pressure switch, so the clutch cannot operate. But it could also be a faulty or open circuit clutch !! Early HEVAC drive the clutch directly. Later version...

Not for the Nanocom input values. They are simply what the ECU sees from switches or sensors. Pin-1 is 12V from BECM. Pin-2 signals brake on to ABS ECU pin-14, and Diesel Engine ECU pin-31. Pin-3 to various other places to signal brake on. (BECM, ABS, EAS, Petrol Cruise & Diesel ECU pin-26)...

Does the pressure switch definitely change state ? Another path for tank leak is via NRV-1 & out the exhaust silencer when the pump is off & diaphragm open.

Check again with Nanocom, but wait a second or two for both to register. Not sure which is sw-1 & sw-2 from RAVE diagram. Pedal released - Pin 3 open & pin-2 closed. Pedal pressed - Pin-3 closed & pin-2 open. There might be a mid point in the switch travel where you get open-open or...

Easy to check - just re-plug the RF receiver direct & see if the FOB communicates. Assuming Nanocom is working, clear the RF memory. Then press the fob & read the memory again.

If you have Marty's filter, then you do not need the antenna disconnected . . . . . . but local RF interference will still cause reduced FOB range. At home I have to be with 10 feet of the car, but at work the FOB works 30-40 feet away. FYI the filty box doesn't change anything RF related...

@MontyChambers did you do the Nanocom check (not while driving) on the two inputs ? No point in replacing the switch unless you're sure it's broke !! The RAVE procedure had a missing bit between 7 & 8. It should be: 7. Extend switch plunger fully. 7a. Hold brake pedal down. 8. Fit switch &...

You can't change the setting because it's an input. The switch on the pedal frame has two contacts in it. Onbe is normall closed & the other normally open. Therefore both toggle on Inputs screen on the Nanocom when you press the pedal.

You need the both CDL & Keyswitch working to sync the fob. MGF latches are usually cheaper, but make sure you get the version with three microswitches. Rimmers have new LHD drivers latches for £46 which is usually cheaper than second hand on eBay. Maybe cheaper for outside the UK ?

With arms like that the ball joints should be easy.

@kermit_rr the way this saga is going you're get this thread to 42000 in no time !!

When reconnecting the battery, it should resume the same locked-unlocked state it was in when disconnecting. Therefore always disconnect the battery with the car unlocked. Then lock manually using the door buttons if required. Nanocom BECM mode only works with ignition off. Does it connect...

Did you hold the button when closing the window ? The button needs to be held until the "Window Set" appears in the dash message display. Repeat for each window. Note: If the windows or sunroof stick or stall during closing, that can cause issues setting them. Procedure is also in the...

Check the brake switch using Nanocom. No need to drive around for this. Here's my Wabco-C but the brake switch wiring is the same. Switch-1 should be normally closed, and open when the pedal is pressed. Switch-2 closes when pressing the pedal. You will see a slight delay in the Nanocom...

But beware the license expiry. Quite a few reviews on amazon saying it's cheaper to buy a new one than renew the license in the App !!

Nanocom recordings are "usually" in the same order as the screens, i.e. the first four columns are Sensor Voltage, and then columns 5-8 are the Wheel Speeds. Values 9-12 are Inlet Valves, and 13-16 the Outlet Valves. I thought the two brake switch contacts should be opposite, i.e. one is open...

Wrong I know, but I used compressed air to find leaks in mine many years back. Replaced condenser & dryer after which it was great for 3-4 years. Then got the slow leak problem. Eventually traced to the spindle seal on the compressor, which I only found while replacing the mag clutch. UV...

More likely the contacts were corroded, and pulling & re-inserting did the trick. Best clean them thoroughly to prevent future issues. Has it been stored or used in a damp environment ?

3, 13 & 15 in the picture below: