If the CDL is always open circuit, then the latch is not working. CDL should be open when door is locked, and closed when door is unlocked. The EKA process needs both CDL & Keyswitch because the BECM uses key turning & locked-unlocked to detect the key sequence. Get that working, and you...

In that case it's not connecting, so you're simply viewing the menus on Nanocom. I presume your doing this with Ignition Off ? Exit to main Nanocom menus & shutdown. Then switch car on & off again. Now reconnect Nanocom & try again ? Also what's the condition of the footwell connections...

First job is to sort the door latch. If CDL is not working on a brand new latch, then contact Rimmers & get it replaced. There is a procedure where you can jumper the latch wires to simulate CDL & Keyswitch, hence enter the EKA but never tried it. Your other statement is confusing ? "Becm...

Heat it up & peel slowly.

Even the CV joint looks wrong ?? Usually the hub obscures that.

BTW, UK cars generally don't light the MIL like the US versions do. Definitely check the sensor connectors either side of the block first, and measure the resistance. Could also be the connector on the GEMS ECU, but that's less likely.

+1 on sort the blend motors. Step-1 try moving them to 50% with Nanocom, and also try the Calibration option. Essentially you have two issues, i.e. the blend & distribution motors, plus probably no gas causing the compressor clutch error.

Your pictures show Open/Close and Close/Open - exactly as it should be. Where are you seeing both closed at same time, or open at same time ? Take a video & upload it to YouTube. Then paste the link here.

It would if the left & right are too far different. It's fairly easy to check. 1) Put car on blocks again & compare the L & R sensor values. That will tell you if they are close across the chassis. 2) Remove blocks & let ECU go to Normal Height. Open the door so it doesn't adjust. Then...

I've seen that "one corner high" on mine, but never figured out why. Also had it consistently leaning to the right on a brive home from Buckingham. Stopped at services & switched off. Then bounced the corners manually & after re-starting it levelled out. I did find the RL sensor arm a bit...

Easy enough to access. Just unbolt the mounts & turn it over. The EAS 12V is on C174. Plenty of ignition switched feeds under there as well.

BTW, treat Nanocom EAS recordings as a genral guide, not an accurate indication of what's happening. The EAS data rate is far too slow to give a realistic picture, because by the time Nanocom reads the values, the ECU have already reacted & changed things. Diagnostic data probably gets lwer...

Are the Sensor voltages going up & down ? Could also be the sensor connectors either side of the block. They do tend to gather oil down there.

+1 on pressure gauge - directly on the pump should be >>>> 150psi. Also check the pump 12V feed. If there's any voltage loss (even 0.5-1.0V makes a difference) through that connector the pump can struggle. Remember it pulls 10-15A unless the piston seal is really loose.

Exactly what I always assumed as well - i.e. it's already stretched. But I have re-used them on many cars over the years, except my Blue P38 which now has Arp Studs.

. . . . . and one other point. If you do this, make sure you wait for the BECM & EAS to go to sleep before doing any wiring. If you interupt the EAS before it sleeps, you can end up with odd behaviour where the car drops to access every time you start it !!

One of mine had an extra ignition switched relay when I bought it. (some sort of tracking & DVD system). So I simply moved the feed from F44 to the timer relay to go via this extra relay. Upside: No self leveling when the car is off - tank & airbags stay filled. Downside: The system forgets...

The pressure switch is always open, so it looks like the pump never achieves required pressure. If the system isn't leaking then the pump needs a refurb again. TBH, I have found the refurb kits never seem to last as long as they used to (both X8R and 4x4airseals)

Read the Nanocom guides first, so you know what the menus do for each ECU. Also check the seat fuses. With Ignition on, you need to read the EMS code, and write it down. Then with Ignition off, write that into the Immobilisation Code box in the BECM. Ignore the actual values on these...

Check the switches with a multimeter. Also check the ABS ECU inputs for 12V when you press & release the pedal. Look through the RAVe diagram for the most convenient points. You could also try the other ECU inputs. Several of them show the brake pressed status (EAS, BECM, Cruise).