+1 on that Keith. . . . it will be HEVAC motors, compressor clutch, condensor failure, SRS connector problems, heated seat failure, tired water pump, rusting steel brake lines, overheating fusebox, leaking rear-view mirror, etc, etc. ;)

Having got the arms & new bushes on the bench I tend to agree, but as I already have the new bushes will try them frozen first !!

Yes . . .. are you talking P38 ? For a P38 EAS It should run from zero until 140psi (or thereabouts). Then as pressure drops it starts again around 120psi. If pumping an empty system, it will stop periodically to put air into the airbags, but will resume until the system is up to pressure...

Yet more rubbish statements about cause & effect from you eh ? If your head unit is disconnect, and the speaker amps are still active, then somebody has been messing with the wiring. It will let you down at some point, wherever you happen to be.

You need to either Zip the file, or change the filename extension from "csv" to "txt" to upload it.

Standard bushes.

Before we digress too far (again) . . . . . @pete12345 even if you cannot open the file, upload the recording here, and we will take a look.

Removed both rear trailing arms & pressed out the knackered bushes today. That bit wasn't too bad. Replacement bushes are a fraction of a mm larger. Tried chamfering one end, but my press keeps pushing them to one side. Now got them in the freezer overnight & will heat up the arm...

Then they should call it CSCV !!

The file should open in either Notepad or Excel. Nanocom CSV format is not quite correct because BBS are still using semi-colons rather than commas to separate the variables.

Yes. BTW, as well as one of the connectors, it could also be a bulb failure in the cluster. There's two bulbs, & if one fails the other SRS light stays on.

Any Nanocom for P38 should read the SRS system. Only the engine ECU's require unlock codes. If you want to pop up to Langley I could take a quick look. No promises on fixes though. Most likely it's a bad connection on one of the seat airbags, steering wheel clock spring. Do all the...

After the engine warms up, do a recording to the SD-Card for the ECU Inputs screen. Then upload the CSV file here so we can look at the live data.

Also you didn't state your actual issue in the titel or first post ?? Has it failed MOT on emissions, or you have CAT's with no internals & want to adjust the fuelling to pass the MOT ? P38 sensors are Pre-CAT so only tell the ECU what's coming out the engine. The CAT's are there to...

Can't help with SDD or GAP, but I like this phrase. :)

If it's a Thor motor, the O2 sensors should flip between 0V to 1V. If it's not a Thor, then you are using the wrong Nanocom menus !! Long term adaptations should adjust over several drive cycles to get the fueling in the right ballpark. Short term adaptations adjust over shorter timescales...

When you've done your nails, pop round & help Roy !!

Check if the existing O2 sensors are working first. Although it usually recommended not to clean them, I've had good results in the past using carb cleaner on O2 sensors. Make sure the connectors are properly clean, as their position either side of the block does tend to attract dirt or oil...

12V (batt +) on pin-1 & 0V (batt -) on pin-3 briefly wathcing which way the window goes. If it tries to go down, reverse the wires. The other pins are used by the outstation & BECM for blockage / trap detection, so you don't need them for manual closing.

You don't. Simply connect 12V to the motor until the window reaches the top & disconnect the wires. Start by applying 12V for 1-2 seconds & see which way the window moves. Do it in stages makinbg sure you disconnect at the top to avoid burning the motor out or jamming the mechanism. If...