RAVE assumes you drained the system previously. You seem to have missed 12 & 13 in the procedure ? Personally I have an issue with step 17-18. Step-17a should be to top up the system while the thermostat is still open !! Also during step-15, that's when you also need to keep squeezing...

I suspect the "disconnect battery and short ECU 12V & ground together" method is completely irrelavent on modern cars. It generally comes from old pre-OBD ECU with volatile memory. But it gives you something to do while waiting for recovery !!

Did you follow the RAVE fill procedure ? If not, then you will almost certainly have an airlock. Are you getting flow through the small pipe from the radiator to the coolant tank ? Also did you clear it before starting the fill ? As others said you should have hot coolant flowing to the...

As Kermit says, they are separate issues. You have confirmed the replacement accumulator has fixed the pump running every brake press. Brake lights on the back of the car are most likely the pedal switch - reset the adjustment, or replace it. If you plan to keep the P38, then you will need...

I suspect you still have airlocks in there ? You could also put the sensor in boiling water & see what your diag tool says then ?

3 glowplugs wqere replaced last year. The one in cylinder-2 is still stuck fast in the engine. But these should only impact starting, and not running whne engine is warm. EGR blank arrived & waiting for FIP & Regulator seals - these will be done in next few days. Also my wife is away for...

or a thin spanner

+1 on this. Did you remove both sodes at the same time ? If so, thats why the asle rotated a bit.

If the header tank cap is tight with no leaks, I would say until you release the pressure. more likely is a slow depressurise through the pump (unless it has a suitable valve ?)

When I did mine I did the chamfer about 5-6mm. Next I do some, I plan to buy one of those taper bearing races (unless someone nearby has the LR tool).

Did you chamfer / bevel the end of the bush plastic outer ? If not it's difficult / impossible to even get it started. Ring compressor is a good idea, but with jubilee clamps you can remove them one at a time as the bush goes in.

I have ordered fuel pump & regulator seal kits to do. Can't definitely see any fuel escaping, but the pump does look like it might be. I did check the sensor volts at idle and it was about 1.7V, but that could be the ECU adjusting the regulator to get the right reading ?

Just been setting up to do a leak-off test on my son's 2004 TD4 FL1. Removed the leak off pipes from the injectors, and tried the ignition-on with engine off check. No fuel coming from injectors tops, but lots coming out of the leak-off pipes ?? Surely there should not be flow from the...

Was assuming the BECM had grabbed the higher milage from the cluster - hence both are now high !!

Do the nut (5) at the far end first. It's easier while the axle end is still attached. Then undo the two marked 7 & 8 in the diagram. If the bolts are fouling on the roll-bar mounts, just undo them & let the roll-bar hang down a bit. Also do one arm at a time. The other one will tend to...

Did you remove & test the thermostat at any point ? Also it's possible to get the two smaller pipes on the wrong ports, which does affect the coolant flow.

It's gonna need the BECM & Instruments reprogramming by someone with the right tools.

Also is the pump working & pressurising the system ? Do the usual accumulator checks as well.

It normally sits level, but after 10 days not being used, my blue P38 seems to have leaned over a bit !! Usually levels ok when started up !!

nothing wrong with running it for a while with water & always getting ot properly warmed up so you can find any leaks. Then after sorting those, drain & replace with proper coolant.