Im currently on an overlanding trip and checking the fault codes i saw injector open circuit errors for all injectors as well as another open circuit error related to air temperature. I dont have any obvious issues and only checked cause i had random three amigos come up (no error logged for...

They are tight to push into the axle

In my case the Nak seals solved the issue. They are much tighter fit so prepare to fight them to get in place

you mean downgrade to an electric fan? the clutch fan is far superior in terms of cooling

hi guys, not strictly a Discovery question - trying to fit an ashcroft locker to my rear diff. trying to set the backlash,but the crown wheel gets jammed (actually more like there is a lot of preload!) as soon as i torque the end cap bolts. i suspect maybe im not fitting the bearing race...

by the way, to bleed the clutch easily use a vacuum pum like this: vacuum pump the important thing is to use a jubilee clip to seal the hose to the nipple and to put generous amount of silicon grease around the threads. it will bleed in a few pumps.

i suspect the metal piece that came out is half of a snap ring that was once lost when the yoke bush self destructed... who knows where the rest is? couple of days a go i replace master and slave cylinders and gear changes are back to normal. case closed (until its reopened)

using a multimeter i have determined that the light comes on when the PK wire does NOT have supply. so in order turn it on i would need to cut out supply not provide it. i think i could use a NC relay maybe. however realistically sounds a little too complicated for what is probably very little...

I think then its the ORM light. I tested a bit, the sls light is the one at the bottom of the cluster and cant really see it lol. This is the one i want to light up

I will use one of those but im worried i won't notice the little light lol. I will even power the switch by the air compressor switch so that if the air compressor is off, the locker will automatically be off.

Based on this i know that the pink/purple from the switch, when joined to earth will light up the bulb (tested). I think the bulb is actually powered by an orange and white wire

Yes i do have cdl so i thought I better use a different light,as offroad i normally drive with cdl activated but rear diff will only be used for exceptional cases

Anyone knows which wire i need to tap in to light the air suspension amber light please? As i dont have air suspension, I want to light it when i turn on the rear locker so i have some indication that its on

This came out when i drained the gear box oil. Anyone knows what it is 😅

what i have found is that gearbox oil replacement can also help, although i dont think that would change the "feel" of the pedal, will still replace the oil as its been there for at least 2 years

replaced the fluid, did nt feel bad when i went for a test drive but eventually gears started stinking again. im guessing its new master/slave time

I changed it a few years ago, i would guess if it was not bled properly i would have had issues before? I usually bleed them quite quickly by reverse bleeding them using the brakes (connect nipple from caliper to nipple on slave and pump the brake or run the bleed function on nanocom

A new problem, after driving for a little while clutch feels "spongy", and its less smooth to disengage. Noticed especially when i tried to pull off up a hill and i couldn't without a fair bit of throttle. This seems to get progressively worse as the car warms up. Gears seem to be going in ok...

also what im hearing is not a squeak, more like hissing

dayco ones are fine but last one i put in... i doubt it was dayco. anyway, ill test the valve block theory first since that it read for install and i want to test it anyway after tapping the new fittings in