Just do what I did and cut one to fit. I had a brownchurch traditional style roofrack so I cut it to suit my rooftent. You can usually pick those ones up pretty much anywhere and they're cheap

What is it?

That frame will probably be for a 200tdi if it's to fit a disco 1. Get yourself to a scrappy and find one off a disco with a 300 and it should fit. As for changing the radiator it's a piece of ****. Disconnect everything from the old one. Slide it out (might as well take out the intercooler and...

Ive driven with them squeaking but I generally don't let it continue for long. I've had a rear one go as well in my last 90 but thankfully wasn't going fast at all so there was no damage. The time it happened on the dual carriageway it had basically sheared the yoke at the transfer box end and...

I probably wouldn't. If its bad enough then get it replaced ASAP. I've had one go on a dual carriageway, come up through the drivers floor and punch a hole in the chassis rail. Not fun

Check your A frame balljoint as this is usually the cause. Failing that lift each wheel and look for play in the drive flanges as these wear and can cause a clunk. Are your UJs in good condition?

Ah it won't be a NAS motor then, although they are available in this country now and again. Those lights do look a lot better than the standard ones, if it were me I'd keep them but you'd probably fetch a decent amount selling them

If its an NAS spec motor keep it, they're not too common anymore

Nobody likes having their shaft peeled

Wouldn't fitting the bushes directly to the shock mount just wear them out pretty quickly? I've never seen shocks fitted without all 4 washers on it but I don't know if fitting is different for newer Defenders.

It's missing two of the washers. You can buy better ones online. Why are you lifting it anyway? Never seen the point in it myself unless you plan on doing some proper offroading, a standard defender will get you pretty much anywhere

I fitted a 1.2 disco box to my 1989 90 (it had a 200tdi fitted to it) and all I had to do was tap 2 holes for the handbrake cable. Other than that it was a direct fit and definitely worth it. I wouldn't be doing 70 in a Defender no matter what but it is much better for cruising at higher speeds

It is a requirement even without grease nipples otherwise you will develop play because the sliding joint is just running dry. Remove the flange that has the grooved sliding portion and slide it out. Pack some grease inside the tube and rub the splines with grease and slide it back in. Make sure...

I meant in land rovers. Can't speak for any other vehicle

Theyve always used ATF. Never heard of anyone using anything other than that

Oh and

You can't adjust the biting point via the pedal adjustment. I followed the instructions here and my clutch has been perfect ever since, its worth a go Adjusting the master cylinder - Gravity bleeding the clutch -

I've got this in mine. Thankfully I acquired it for free but what a difference it makes, it's very heavy and backed by thick foam. Lot of money to spend but if you had it spare I'd say its worth it https://www.mm-4x4.com/exmoor-trim-defender-acoustic-matting-systems-6898-p.asp

Youll be lucky to get 70 for this mate, they're normally ten a penny on ebay and not expensive

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