I know this isn't going to help you, but auto-boxes are funny things. We had a Mk 3 Mondeo 2.0L auto with a Jatco 'box generally considered to be good for 80k miles in that particular model .. it was still going strong when we sold the car at 170k :rolleyes:

Thanks for that suggestion, I'll bear it in mind when the sh.. hits the fan next Spring.

We are both retired & reside in a rural area. 'Ere indoors indoors used the car most as she is involved with the local community.

Around 5K miles. Thanks for the reply.

My partner is still in her early 'seventies & is the registered keeper/main user of our daily, with myself listed as the named driver. Conversely my RRC is on a classic policy in my name with her as the named driver. I turn 80 next month & thinking of trying for classic cover on the 26 year old...

Many thanks for your research, I should be able to manage the task myself as I've had that facia panel down/off more than once in the past. The car has only covered 63K miles, but of course the aging of 37 year old plastic components is probably the issue here.

If I have to replace the switch, which judging by the images of it on the 'net seems to be incorporated into the complete indicator stalk, how do the wires connect .. push in or do they need to be soldered? Has anyone done this & can advise if it's a DIY job or needs an auto electrician.

Agreed about WD40, but I used it as I feel the mechanism of the switch is sticking due to lack of use (how often does the average owner use the thing) rather than a bad contact problem.

Hi guys The hazard flasher switch (top of the steering column surround) on my '87 3.5efi has been playing games for a while ie whilst the hazards would switch on turning them off again meant several presses of the button before normal indicator operation was resumed. The switch has now decided...

I wouldn't think elephants would take kindly to being bonded to glass :D On the other hand elements wouldn't be bothered.

And word your feedback accordingly ;)

There's an old adage that applies to modern cars, not just JLR products .. if it's fitted sooner or later it will go wrong. Add in the fact that 'moderns' are consumer goods with a finite service life, usually just beyond the factory warranty period. Buyers are fooled into believing that...

Really? I remember their site at East Tilbury in Essex back in the early 'seventies, not only the factory itself but the whole complex (houses & shops etc) known by locals as 'Bata town'

Mud? yuck, I used to hate it back in my green-laning days but unfortunately it's the main ingredient in UK off-roading. Can you play down the mention of Jeeps / Toyotas / Suzukies & (most of all) Mahindras as some of us 'real' LR aficionado's are a bit sensitive :oops: I hope you continue...

On top of that, if the new car costs in excess of £40K there is an extra £410 PA payable from the second year to the fifth.

So assuming the 'barstewards don't move the goalposts you will have to wait until April next year to claim Historic status.

And of course there was also the issue of LPG usage where the higher combustion chamber temperatures could accelerate the block cracking/slipped liner scenario .. believe me I've been there, together with a friend with another 3.9 similarly converted.

The OP has a problem never experienced by me with the ownership of one 3.9 & three 3.5efi's. Just fill the oil filter as much as possible without spillage & screw on, oil light off within 5 seconds .. job done. Hope his problem gets sorted.

I seem to recall the rules changing for double cab pickups as they were a popular way of dodging the tax?

Doesn't sound like a liner, that is more of a distinct 'tap' commensurate with engine revs. For reference such a noise would start quite suddenly as the engine starts to warm up & is at piston speed, rather than valve gear which is half of that. Out of interest, is the car running on LPG?