Have you figured how much space you will have for the IRD yet? IIRC the Tie bar bolts to the engine and IRD but will your IRD be in a different position with the Auto box? Maybe just make up a new bracket to replicate the original.

That's true as officially the only thing that has changed is the method of propulsion. I never understood how towing capacity was worked out, a Defender 90 can legally tow more than your Ioniq yet is much lighter. The best bit about towing the Golf was the route to the mechanic has a fairly...

Well done mate, will this effect the lower tie bar position?

Towed brother in law's Golf to the mechanic with it. Funny thing was his Golf clutch pedal was stuck to the floor just like mine. His didn't go as well like that tho. 🤣 Who said EV's can't tow! 😋

I think the chip is pretty robust but the keys are easily replaced so make sure any damage done is to the key, not the chip.

Have a look at this Savvycan is stunningly good software for reverse engineering. Make sure you look at the notes for links to other channels.

I used some of that magical error light fixing black tape. It's amazing stuff, one application and the error lights just disappear. 😋 If you figure out how to fix it properly let me know.

When you say the VCU was checked and is in good condition what do you mean? How was it checked? A lot of mechanics no nothing about them.

Did you try clicking the remote 5 times?

Glad to hear you got it in. One way or another! 😋

It was a few years ago but I'm pretty sure I did it without issue. I think I epoxied it just below the ignition switch.

As theft of the car is not really an issue why not remove the chip from the working key and tape it into the steering column beside the ignition, then get a spare key cut and move on with your life. For those about to mention insurance I'd be interested to hear about a likely sequence of events...

There's probably so many other gaps and draughts in the Defender it's not an issue but any modern car will have buffeting with only one window open. Sorry I should have mentioned I have deflectors on my Freelander and they don't do much for me either.

You ignored my first piece of advice then. :oops: DON'T DO IT! :eek: It's a common issue with Freelanders but thankfully once the hole is sorted, the handle and number plate pretty much cover everything. I repaired one with a bit of steel and pop rivets as I didn't want to burn the paint...

50mm Lift kit! Been there, done that and never again. :oops: As for the handle I've repaired several by epoxying in spouting bolts and they lasted for years. Having said that £33 for a new one........

😋 I'd forgotten I have some silicone grease. I'll use that later thanks.

So after a quick drive there is good news and bad news The good news is as already mentioned the knock is gone. :D The bad news is the moron that installed the ARB bushes didn't use grease and they're squeaking. :mad: So I guess I'll be doing a bit more today to sort the squeak. Anybody know if...

It IS a PITA but shouldn't take too long if you already know how to remove the door cards. Just watch out for those sharp edges. ;)

Replaced leaky N/S drive shaft seal and the front subframe with a spare that was painted a few months ago. It has new ARB bushes too which seems to have sorted the knocking I heard while driving up the lane. :)

A couple of years ago we had a guy come on here ranting about the brake adjuster saying it couldn't possibly work. Turns out he had his fitted on the wrong side of the car. Someone (probably him) had taken apart both sides at the same time and mixed them up. Is this possible?