Mmmmmmmmmmmmm........ Whitwell. Jai, don't we know somebody who got stuck there once?

I have owned my '91 RRC for almost 15 years. I have used it for green laning and it has been abused but it still keeps going. Rot repairs should be expected for any RRC. If you can find a reasonably straight one that has been looked after then go for it. However, if you are not able to do...

My Rangie is having surgery (again!). The rear diff pan has finally rotted through and more chemical metal is not the answer so I thought I'd just pop the rear axle off, get a diff pan - weld it on and put it all back - simple, a few nuts and bolts, a couple of wires and brake pipes how hard can...

Slow down! As said glittery stuff is a stop leak potion of some sort. Check the radiator core isn't blocked - do not attempt to clean the core with a pressure washer, you can destroy it that way. Viscous fan tool???? what's wrong with either 1.1/4 or 32mm spanner - works for me? Don't forget...

OK, I did find what I had in mind. https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/discovery-i-abs-codes/267-discovery-i-abs-blink-code-procedure Note this relates to the D1. The system is slightly different but it has broadly similar characteristics and is also a WABCO system. Most of the codes are...

Had a quick search, maybe have a blast on these: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/26598-abs-fault-codes/ https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/99869-1992-range-rover-classic-39-efi-2-door-abs-issues/ https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rr-classic-brake-problems-abs.90038/ I'm sure there are plenty of...

OK, let's see if we can work through this. I don't have a reference for an ABS error 2-3. You say it is constant? Have you actually cleared ALL the error codes. The ECU stores multiple errors and sometimes it can take a while to clear them all down. I assume you found the diagnostic plug and...

This one https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/54776-updated-coil-for-39-v8/

FWIW maybe have a quick blast through this: https://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8569 I saw another thread on LR4x4 that might be useful. Will post a link if I can find it.

What coil are you running? A "performance" coil could be a problem. Big coil will burn out the ignition amp that's why you should stick to standard amp and coil. There is no advantage from a "big" coil. Also, on timing yes the V8 will run at 12 degrees advance; I set mine at 12 degrees running...

You didn't say you let it run dry. Sounds like you have a bucket of air in the system. I understand what Discool is saying but I'm not sure if it is essential; time and much brake fluid should enable you to bleed the system through although I am not aware of a DIY method for activating...

It sounds like you are having a normal ABS bleed incident. The pump running constantly means either there is a lot of air in there or the pressure switch is dead. I am afraid you need to go back and start all over again. Bleeding the ABS has to be done exactly as it says in the manual, there are...

With carbs I would be checking the needles move correctly. If these carbs have a diaphragm, pop the tops off and make sure there are no holes in the diaphragms. Check any choke mechanisms - make sure the choke is able to be fully off. If it's an automatic choke that works with a bi-metallic...

Have had a breeze through this; sounds like a nightmare. 21" vacuum at idle is pretty strong. My 3.9 only makes 15". Your ignition timing is very advanced. AFAIK the 3.9 was never made for carbs so ignition timing, advance curve and then valve timing, lift and duration would have been set up for...

Breather is a fair shout. Have you tried doing a vacuum test? This might help confirm if there are any inlet manifold leaks. The tin gaskets are notorious for leaks; usually coolant from the ends but if there is a bit of a blow elsewhere, vac test might be helpful but as to where you can attach...

In line with what Discool said, I have found issues with ignition because old wires become brittle and break inside the insulation or are just corroded so the ends need cutting off and new spades crimped on. Not sure how your ignition is wired up but I would expect the circuit to be the same so...

Just noticed this one. Fuel pump playing up is something I have come to live with. Things to check: 1: Fuel pump relay, if it is stuck or just dead then no fuel. Maybe try swapping with the main efi power relay.If you listen when you switch on the ignition you should hear the relays click, first...

Sounds like ignition amp or the wires connected to it. Check and trace the wires to the ignition amp and test. Also, depending on age of the engine, ignition amp may have only 2 pins/wires but it does the same. I note the OP is in Chester, not a million miles away so if it still doesn't work...

No I'm not joking, perhaps when I say handle, I should talk about "feel". I have simply found the air suspension lacks feel and the L322 definitely felt like it had more body roll and had more understeer when pushed. I would have to agree the P38 and L322 have more ultimate grip due to wider...

I'm a bit late to the party on this one. If I understand this you are worried the oil light takes a few seconds to go out after start up. Mine has been like that for ages without issue. Also, do you know if you have an original oil pressure switch? I have found this issue is more noticeable...