It's in RAVE.

I would always use metric olives with metric fittings & vice versa. I used 15mm solder & compression fittings for some 8-bar airline feeds in my garage with no issues. Have you tried asking some of those custom hose companies that do made to measure stuff ? I googled this "oil cooler pipes...

It's in the Owner's Handbook !!

Yes, you have two issues. Brake lights on rear will either be the switch, or a BECM issue. Most likely the switch. Before you replace the Accumulator, check pump is fully pressurising. With car stationary wait for the pump to stop running. Then drive forward until you're over 5mph...

It does look like something has been getting between that cylinder & the coolant passage. When I did mine, I put a ring of sealant around the coolant passages just in case. The gaskets don't always have it.

@Frank_38 You didn't say if it's the Brake Lights on the back of the car or Brake Warning on dash ? ABS & TC are nothing to do with the brake light switch. ABS needs the pump to run & pressurise the system, hence the questions above about pumping the pedal & waiting for the pump to engage...

Bottom right in that picture looks questionable to me ?

Put some air in it first. Then as it folds the air should come out but help the bag stay in shape ?

I had similar on my Blue P38 after it was parked for couple of months. Battery was down to 6V, so I put it on my Ring Charger in recovery mode. Took 2 days, but charged ok & fine for last 6 months.

It might be a good idea to put a vacuum gauge on the line befdore jumping into the servo ? Could also be a weak pump.

Technical name is "vent hose that always comes off". Mine are both the same !! Any spiral vent hose should do. Measure the size of the outlet on the lower panel to see what's needed, and then one slightly longer so it's easier to fit.

Pull the pin fully out (but careful you dont over extend it) Hold the brake pedal down while fitting the switch. Then release the pedal, and it will self adjust the switch.

Do you mean the brake lights at the back, or the brake warning light ? If it's the rear lights, then suspect the switch or a BECM issue. If it's just the warning lamp, then check handbrake handle switch or the ABS Pump.

Rear screen relay is in BECM as you say, but front has two relays in engine fusebox. I would suspect connection issue from HEVAC output to the BECM. Maybe bung an inline fuse thingy in place of F12 & see if the current changes with the ticking ?

There seems to be threads on lots of car forums about them. Most of their websites are simply appearing to be local, but their operation is only in Germany. "Warranty returns" are a bit like China where they expect you to cover return postage, which should not happen for real warranty...

it will do. You have a chinese chipset, so you need their driver. You might get away with the driver from this page https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-install-ch340-drivers/all Before you install it, you need to delete any Microsoft driver first. See post #31 in this thread. (I...

That's gonna costa lotta. "How much" "¿Cuánto cuesta?" "Combien ça coûte?" "Wieviel kostet das?" "Quanto costa questo?" "Quanto custa isso?" "Zhège duōshǎo qián?" "Kore wa ikuradesu ka?" "Yeh kitne ka hain?" "Сколько стоит это?"

nope. but in the Details tab, change the Property to Hardware ID. you can then copy the Value string, and paste into Google search.

COM4 should be ok. Not tried a Chinesium USB Serial for many years, as I now use an FTDI adapter on both my Macbook & windows for various serial stuff. The error you got looks like a windows driver issue.

The SW doesn't like the port selection, or the driver is not loaded correctly. Do a screenshot of the serial port details.