No need for a VM. Just use the "All Models" version on Mac with Adobe Reader DC.

I agree on that. The reason I had to tilt the engine was to replace the rusted core plug in the cylinder head just above the thermostat housing. Effing nightmare. Pump & stat replaced just in case while I was in there.

Never used mine on either of our family FL1's, besides it will get in the way doing the water pump. Easier to use a trolley jack & wood block underneath. I did one recently & also unbolted the NS engine mount. Got an extra 1/2" space to get the pump out !!

or the clock ?? (wasn't that the old problem on the XJ6 V12 ??)

Personally I would avoid, unless you like playing with an unknown variant of Linux. They don't even specify the CPU & memory, etc. BTW, I edited my post above to be specific !! Was tired earlier, so I think I responded to the wrong thread !!

Depend if you have a laptop with serial port !!

It's an old Joying 7" Android based on Intel CPU. A bit old hat now.

did you check with the seller what chipset is in the USB-Serial part ?? Their advert doesn't specify !!

As said above, either make your own or buy the EAS Serial cable from Datatek or eBay. Watch out for many of the cables online. The part with blue connectors is the USB-Serial required for laptops without a serial port. You need one with FTDI Chipset inside the 9-pin connector. Most ebay...

also remember that "ticking" is generally something worn. Double check it's had oil changes at the correct intervals, and who did them. Receipts for work done can help with warranty as well.

1) Cheapest solution is to buy an EAS USB-Serial diagnostic cable & download the free EAS-Unlock software. 2) EAS Kicker will be minimum £65 plus shipping. 3) Best solution is to buy a P38 Nanocom Evolution. Another option is to add your town name to your profile & also check LZIR for someone...

The heads are basically the same, so it makes sense the part number will be.

Best to start your own thread. This one is >4 years old. Wiring diagrams are all in RAVE . . . look in Technical Archive at top of forum. Nanocom can test the doors without the switchpack. Did it get wet from a leaky sunroof ? Switch pack is F1. Front doors are F9 & F22. Rear windows...

Are they any better than the £60 no-name versions ?

Depends what you want for display. Three main options are: 1) replace the rear view mirror, but you lose the auto-dim capability (unless the aftermarket one does it) 2) standalone display unit on the dash somewhere 3) install an Android stereo, etc. In all three case you need to put the...

Given that it's a 1995 car, and might have an earlier BECM, it's probably worth trying Kieth's settings. Disable both Immo & EKA using diagnostic, and then make sure you successfully write settings. Then lock & unlock the car using the FOB & see if it starts without errors ? After that...

Also remember if Nanocom says 12V then that particular switch is open. The usual fault is the switch failing close to 0V due to wear on the small pip on the switch. As long as all 3 toggle to zero then they are working, although wear in the mechanism can also mean they don't operate at the...

I find the easiest way is to close the latch using a srewdriver with the door still open. Then you can access the latch & wiring, but the BECM thinks the door is closed so will still lock & unlock without the mislock warnings.

Did the L322 benefit from the acupunture, or was that you ??

"valve processing with abrasive paste. On the right, unmachined seats and valves, on the left, seats and valves ground with coarse and fine abrasive paste. Good night" Looks to me like the right side have been done, not the left ?? Mi sembra che sia stato fatto il lato destro, non il sinistro??