Check your heater matrix for leaks. Even a slow drip over time could cause that.

From the pictures it looks like surface rust. Clean it up & see if you can see light through it ? Then seal any gaps & paint with Hammerite - Kurust. Underneath lots of underseal might work. But before all that you need to figure out where the water is coming from.

If you're gonna weld new metal in, then the carpets & underlay need to come out. If you can clean up the rust & seal any gaps, then it's possible to dry it out in situ. I had a heater matrix fail back in Nov 2023 (on the way to MOT). After removing the dash top & centre console to sort the...

Wipe out any fluids first, and then vacuum all the loose debris, especially around the piston rings. Check all the core plugs for rust & signs of leaks.

Didn’t realise if a leftie. Now we know.

Just take the centre dash panel out & sort it properly. Takes about 10mins to get side panels off, lower panel under steering wheel, & release the 4 screws for HEVAC panel, plus slide the radio out. Then you can unscrew the centre dash & sort the clock bulb. While it's out clean the...

Sunroof drains - one at each corner. The pipes go down the A & C pillars, and exit into the outside wheelarches. Could also be doorseals, roof gutters leaking, etc.

Probably unscrew the plastic trim on the top of the tailgate. The screws should be behind the internal trim.

Nearest imperial size is 1/2". BES do them, inluding 15mm to 1/2" converters.

Yes, here's where the other brake pedal switch goes. But neither brake switch is required to close for ABS & TC lights to go out when moving off from standstill.

IHTTATA

For the TC & ABS lights you need to check the ABS system. That includes the booster pressure switch, wheel sensors, ECU diagnostics, etc. No you would not damage the ABS by stomping on the brake pedal. It generates 80bar, so a lot more than your footsie can provide !! Brake switch &...

Clean the heads first, and get a 24inch steel rule to check the heads. Then if you need to courier them for skimming, you can do the block while the heads are being sorted. Not sure if you stated your milage, but while you're in there, it might be worth replacing the camshaft.

+1 on steel rule & feeler gauge for flatness. You can also shine a torch from behind the rule, and easily see any gaps due to warp. Why pay a workshop to do something so simple !! If they do need a skim, I can recommend Classic Modern Engine Services in Bracknell. They did an excellent...

It's in RAVE.

I would always use metric olives with metric fittings & vice versa. I used 15mm solder & compression fittings for some 8-bar airline feeds in my garage with no issues. Have you tried asking some of those custom hose companies that do made to measure stuff ? I googled this "oil cooler pipes...

It's in the Owner's Handbook !!

Yes, you have two issues. Brake lights on rear will either be the switch, or a BECM issue. Most likely the switch. Before you replace the Accumulator, check pump is fully pressurising. With car stationary wait for the pump to stop running. Then drive forward until you're over 5mph...

It does look like something has been getting between that cylinder & the coolant passage. When I did mine, I put a ring of sealant around the coolant passages just in case. The gaskets don't always have it.

@Frank_38 You didn't say if it's the Brake Lights on the back of the car or Brake Warning on dash ? ABS & TC are nothing to do with the brake light switch. ABS needs the pump to run & pressurise the system, hence the questions above about pumping the pedal & waiting for the pump to engage...