Yes. What's "aintgreen" ?? Do you mean not a green one.

You can just see the KM on the cluster. Def looks like a much earlier model than 2000 & GEMS engine !! Don't like the brown inside.

+1 on this "read the code in the EDC and write it to the BECM."

Find something to hold the clutch from rotating & release centre nut or bolt. Then wriggle the clutch a bit & it should come off.

You need to measure at the battery rather than using diagnostics.

There are people out there than can do replacement keys & fobs. My son had a guy based in Bedford that programmed a FoB & spare keys for his 2004 FL1 TD4.

If it's a "temporary import for repair", then you should normally get the duties back when it leaves the UK again. Same with VAT. Had the same thing a few years back shipping Motorola demo kit to various non-EU countries. It a case of getting the paperwork correct. Any good quality courier...

If he wants £500 for a £300 hub, then he's either ripping you off, or got a good discount on a genuine LR one ??

Hard to correlate. With the engine is running the EAS should see the charging voltage, unless there's some voltage drop between the fusebox & the EAS. Keith's capacitor mod should remove any spikes & glitches on the 12V supply. On mine after I sorted the bad joints in the fusebox & +ve...

+1 the dash always beeps & displays the message when connecting EAS diagnostics. Same applies to Nanocom & EASunlock software. Always use either the "Stop" button in EASunlock, or exit the menus on Nanocom before disconnecting the cable.

Could also be intermittent connection in the pins & sockets inside the connector between driver pack & solenoids. The fix is to de-pin them one at a time & gently squeeze the sockets so they grip the pins properly. But do the capacitor mod first - it's easier.

RAVE Manuals have all the diagrams, wire colours & pin numbers..

Diff rubbing noise is more likely the mounts. Never heard a diff making a rubbing noise . . . . usually it's a whine.

Surely if you put schrader valves on the airlines to the airsprings, then there was no point where there could be a "leak in a part of the system common to all springs". Or did you use t-pieces & retain the valve block connections ?

Dunno if it's me, but I can't see much except a batmobile ??

The locking works because triggering the button microswitch (i.e. CDL switch) makes the BECM thinks you're inside the car & want all the doors to lock. Conversely when unlocking using the button, the mod makes the BECM think you want to unlock that door. To make it work properly the mod would...

And a link to the YouTube video would be good

These notches. Two at front of block & two at the back.

Depends what gaskets you use. Good quality have sealant around the coolant passages. Cheap usually don't. Cant remember if I used any on the head gaskets, but definitely did around the coolant passages on both top & bottom of the valley gasket.

The original video must be out there somewhere ?