Your viscous coupling is likely to be nixed which is probably the root cause of the diff failure. If you replace the diff, the ird is likely to explode next. Hard choice to make next; Either replace the diff, risk the IRD Replace the diff, remove the prop and run in 2 wheel drive Delete the...

How does it run without the thermostat in? If it *stays* overheating there's something suspicious going on. Are the cooling fans coming on and off as expected? This thread has been going a while, I can't remember if you've had a coolant sniff test done?

Some days it can just be a deliberate swine to get on these. I seem to remember on some belts that when you line up the cams EXACTLY the belt won't quite fit properly, and because of the nature of the crank being exactly half the teeth of the cams, it's very easy to get half a tooth out. I'd...

If you shine a torch down between the two sprockets, there's a line on the plastic that the two marked teeth on the sprockets should line up with. Other than that, use a straight edge - it should line up with all the inner and outer marks if you've done it correctly. This can be a right...

Uncontrolled revving and lack of power kinda sounds like you've got an air leak somewhere. The K series can't deal with air leaks very well - did you plug all the vacuum hoses back in, including the brake servo? That's the one that gets me every. single. time. Right now the K powered...

That's precisely what got me in trouble while I was rebuilding the v12...

Agreed, the crosshatching in the cylinder liners is normal. Chancing it there big time, last time I washed car parts indoors I got yelled at!

If that's one month old, the pump, or something is definitely jamming. Is there any end float on the pump, allowing it to move in and out?

Are those stock seats or have they been reworked?

Looks like something's moved somewhere, the impeller should not touch the housing. Given that the pump doesn't positively engage with the belt, only connects by friction, I wonder if the pump has been jamming. Is the back of the belt shiny in places, like it's been slipping on the pump...

So you're in a situation where the starter solenoid isn't clicking? Have you put a voltmeter on the feed to the starter motor? Check to see if you get +12V to the START terminal? Have you tried jumping +12V directly onto the solenoid start terminal? Some times the solenoid actuator arm can...

What profile are they? Are they all 55? or are you running 225/55 front and 235/50 rear? 225/55 theoretical rolling radius: 2134mm Front 235/50 theoretical rolling radius: 2094mm ~2% -ve change <-- very dangerous 235/55 theoretical rolling radius: 2168mm ~2% +ve change 235/55 are the...

Call me odd, but I actually much prefer to strip the head while it's on the car, find it kind of therapeutic. (But in the current weather I could understand the impulse to get indoors!) The smell of burning oil is a big indicator that it's been blocked up badly, your camshaft bearings are...

Best thing is usually white spray on lithium (?) grease. Can be had for a couple of £ from Halfords. Hangs around a long time as well once it sticks.

Depends how quickly it comes to a stop, as @Nodge68 says they all drag. If it rolls to a stop then you're probably ok, if it stops like someone just dropped an anchor... not so much. The only way to test is with the one wheel up. I wouldn't worry too much though - whatever freelander you buy...

Nupe, just soaked the old ones in brake cleaner till they came up good! The trick is not levering them in odd ways while trying to remove em!

The cam bearings were kinda noisy on reassembly, they're pretty buggered. Put heavier 15w40 oil in it and it shut up immediately. I don't really care - if they go they go and I'll buy a new head.

Wasnt the payern elastomer gasket revised to 30NM+180+180? I know the final version of the N series SAIC MLS is something like 20+180+135.

One thing it took me a long time to realise - when you do the head bolts go around three times at any torque stage. (I can't remember what the exact torque figure is, but...) If the first stage is 30NM go around and torque everything to 30NM, then go around and do it again, then do it a...

Any anaerobic sealant should be good, so long as it's oil resistant. I wouldn't bother with the cam locking tool - one thing to bear in mind, pay very close attention to the carrier release/torqueing procedure in the RAVE manual. They're very easy to bend and while most people never have a...