I’ve tried to release the circlip“in situ” but unable to get the pliers in to try, I might look at alternatives and try again. I was using a long pry bar between the bolts and a 600mm breaker bar with the socket, this was bending. I’m not a wee bloke but, I might need to get another bod to hang...

I have to take off the output flanges on the transfer box to remove the old Prop shaft bolts and fit the new ones, then reassemble. The nut is at 135lB/ft according to the manual.

I've taken a week off to try and get moving on more cleaning & refurb work. Got the valve clearances done, new gasket and retaining seals and reassembled some pipework / hoses on the engine. I've already changed the oil & filter so not much more planned for the engine until it is installed and...

Looking good.

Looking great, sorry can’t answer you Q’s but obviously interested in the responses. Weather here has been awful so not much progress for me , the timber has arrived for the garage extension so I can start that once I finish the garden gym for my daughter who is working from home since finishing...

Weather too windy or wet to spray the fuel tank and other bits. The selection of a gear required the gear lever to travel more than I have during lockdown so, I decided to fit the Slick Shift kit and adjust the bias springs. A previous owner had tried to reduce the movement by adding a pot of...

This is really taking shape. Annoying that the swivel housing was so obviously flawed and there is nothing worse than being held up waiting on a part.

All looking very good. How many coats of the Galv In One are you putting on? I was thinking about T-Washing the chassis first and using Chassis In One with three coats so, very interested in your experience of the GIO. I did read that placing the Schultz cans in warm water also helps with the...

On the fuel tank it’s back to bare metal, except between the bottom protective plate and the tank bottom. I’ll use RE on this then 2/3 coats of CIO. On the wheel arches I have degreased them and removed the Localised rust with a flap disc, I’ll then use RE and then GIO which will be in contact...

Actually got something done, cleaned up the fuel tank in prep for Buzzweld Rust Encapsulator and Chassis in One top coat. Replacement inner wings to be finished prep and they will have Rust Encapsulator and top coated with Galv In One also from Buzzweld. I already have the Gwyn Lewis front...

I found that they were ok people but I’m still waiting on a shipping cost for a Marsland Chassis! No rush as I’ll wait until this COVID 19 outbreak settles before spending £3k

Cool, thanks, I’ll try that and, once I get the damn thing completed test them out. If I hit a tree I’ll know it wasn’t correct much appreciated as this is a job I can get done.

Turrican, I have seen that one, my concern is the orientation of the valve.

Schoolboy error when stripping my Defender for rebuild, didn’t note which port was which on the brake valve or the master cylinder. The valve is NTC8836, I looked at the manual I have and it is unclear to me, can anyone assist ? BTW what is the yellow ty- wrap for? thanks

My target too , will need it all and more to glue this lot together.

Yes, as I am trying to avoid spending too much over what it would achieve if I sold it. Not that my intention is to sell but, it is way to get carried away with new shiny things. I’ll add upgrades afterwards unless it makes sense to do them during the rebuild. I had no timeline as the whole...

Looking good, like you the lockdown has sloooooowwwwweeeeedddd me down too. I like the seat upholstery, Exmoor stuff is good but, as you say expensive. Interesting comment regarding TerrainTech.

Perfect, I need one and it’s one of those. Can you let me know how much you want for it, I cludi g postage? thanks

@Hicap phill thanks, I’m looking for the “knob” only.

I was waiting on that reply as I wrote the post