The guy doing the alignment mentioned it ‘might’ be that. Another fitter I know (who built the struts up for me) said it was possible, but unlikely - he’d only known of 1 bad shaft out the box. Also possibly the hub. I’m just regrouping my thoughts before making the next plan.

@andyfreelandy @kernowsvenski

That’s right here… he literally posted in the thread “introduce yourself” 🙄 Hi - welcome to LZ. Plenty of knowledge for you here for your hippo.

Firstly, are you sure it’s the diff? You are going by what the garage tells you - the same one that said it was the brakes first? I’d be getting a second opinion before committing to a diff. Recons can be fine, depending on who/where you are getting it from and ‘how’ it’s been recon’d.

Update; 4 wheel alignment completed 😁 Judder still there 🙄😡 Guys doing the work couldn’t see anything obvious. Have today nipped up the strut clamp bolt (behind the knuckle) and also nipped up the driveshaft nut. Still there. I think the issue is n/s related, as when you turn left and apply...

I did look at the springs before they went in. Seemed to be in the correct seating positions on the struts. Also checked that the tabs on the bearings were lined up with the locator at the bottom of the struts. My thoughts are that the spring kissing the arch just had a twist in it perhaps.

Wheel balancing issues would be present at any speed presumably. Double-checked all bolts as I went 👍

OEM BWI from AF

Ok, so as posted elsewhere, I recently had the f/o/s suspension spring snap. These things happen in colder weather on older cars, and more likely for me as I do a fair bit of off-road driving in it too. I renewed both sides, with complete new struts, springs, bump stops, bearings and top plates...

I’ll double-check them both 👍

It feels like something is not spinning true, if that makes sense? Like a wheel or axle wobble. But it stops, and doesn’t even start if you accelerate slower 🤔 It’s only when accelerating and building speed hard. Weird. It’s got to be linked to the recent work I’ve done - too much coincidence...

In normal driving mode they are pretty much 2WD. The Haldex pushes more when they start to lose traction, or when the terrain response is in a special mode

Yeah, I always brim it too, just never bother to check! I might next time…

HSE

I did work it out once, but I’ve not felt the need to go and measure it exactly ever again. There are too many variances in the driving conditions to get an exact figure anyway - so it’ll change for every tank used. That’s close enough for me. Nobody buys a Landie for their fuel efficiency!

Just be mindful that it won’t have the same ground clearance as a disco. It has good clearance, and probably plenty for what you want.

2.2 TD4 (it’s either 150 or 160 hp, can’t remember) has plenty of power and grunt, will give you the best mpg. And will happily sit on a motorway and keep up with the rest of them, or plod along on cruise and watch the world go by. They can have trouble with the rear diffs, but can be sorted if...

I’ve driven autos for the last 15 years, and my daily is a bmw EV, but my FL2 is manual. It’s fun, and you have a little more control on the slippery stuff. They are also cheaper 😉

Just look around for a good one - with known history. An SE will have the toys you want without breaking the bank 😉