Many thanks for the quick reply, I will try and get on it this evening. Should I presume it's genuine Land Rover or VDO pump only or is there a cheaper option which has proved reliable?

Son broke down in his D2 TD5 just now, rescued him in the tdi. The fuel pump isn't running, had a quick roadside check of the fuse, swapped a relay, pressed the fuel cut off button. None of these made any difference so towed it back with the Ninety. Need some advice on the next steps to follow...

That's different to the one I did last week on the Ninety. The key barrel end section was plastic along with the operating arm and plastic washers. The screw was a self tapping screw since it was going into plastic.

Your doots should have push button handles. Post a picture it will be far easier for everyone to understand.

Do you mean the little screw that goes through the plastic operating arm, through the housing and into the plastic key barrel extension? If so then no I don't know what suze it is, I would just find a screw in my random screw collection.

Might be hard work getting them to slide on the column on the OPs photo 🤔

Having the springs fitted correctly makes a big difference to whether the brakes work well or not. When my son bought his Ninety they were fitted incorrectly.

I'm not sure I have read about the tension being incorrect before. My tensioner was a bit weird in the fact it would only have play in it when the pulley wheel was in a certain position. It basically felt fine unless you turned the pulley a little bit then there was obvious play. I have read...

All as clear as mud as per usual with land rover. Yours looks to be the early one to me.

Take the fan off, take the belt off, check all bearings, pulley and belt tensioner and go from there. If nothing is wrong then fit a new belt of a decent make. Beat me to it ^

https://twinwoods4x4.co.uk/product/defender-steering-column-lower-shaft-and-joints-qme500031/ 97 onwards

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/3.55727.56023.57673/brand/land-rover/_gl/1%2A1y3fy70%2A_up%2AMQ..%2A_ga%2AMTkyNjY4NzY1OC4xNzQwMzM2OTU4%2A_ga_6WEX61NFXZ%2AMTc0MDMzNjk1Ny4xLjAuMTc0MDMzNjk1Ny4wLjAuMTUyNDQ4NzQyOQ../ Maybe the uj depends on the different type of centre...

The ujs are separate, the section between isn't cheap so reuse if possible. On the later defender they changed to a longer 1 piece section. I am not 100% if you can change to the later shaft or not or even if its of any benefit. Edit. I didn't realise the lower uj changed or what the change is...

Clever stuff that 3D model.

Happy days, what was the fix?

You can put spacers on the steering lock stop bolts to stop them bending. You can use washers if only need a little bit.

There were some genuine ones on Ebay last week for less than £20, might still be there. If I remember correctly there are different top and bottom. I would try and salvage the centre column section. We fitted Bearmach oem 9 years ago and are OK. Transfer box leak may well be the intermediate...

Seriously you need to change the column ujs, don't buy the very cheapest though. When you fit them grease them up and a drop of oil every now and again. It's almost impossible to turn the steering on a modern car with the engine off.

It is a shame but the 4x4 community only have themselves to blame.

Last time I drove it was 2020 when were first allowed to travel after covid lock down.