IMO you have to replace the alarm ECU with confirmed working same part number one cos everything points to that unit unless it's a wiring issue on that path

1.Tell exactly the code description 2.The alarm LED is constantly on when you try to crank it?

Hi, if with two different ECUs the symptom and fault code is the same and the crank sensor and it's wiring were 100% ruled out then IMO the problem is mechanical but i cant guess what can it be especially if it was so from the beginning without knowing the full history of the vehicle unless...

If you want one to have reliable engine management coverage for the Td5 too then you need a Hawkeye Total ... no other LR multivehicle tool would work well with the Td5 EMS that's verified, Icarsoft is the worst of all from it's cathegory Foxwell NT530 (or 520 or 510 Elite) is better

That was the ideea based on how it looks but i didnt try myself at the airbag plug as when i had the SRS light it was a pretensioner and this kind of resistor worked for that one but the airbag side might be more sensitive.... unfortunately there is no clear info about te D2's airbag original...

Hi, did you check in the plug if it has that shorting bar or not? what code did you get before using the resistor when the SRS light first came on? also with the resistor connected into the plug can you erase the code?

The ECM or SLABS would not affect how the DCVs are managed cos it's about vehicle speed and rpm inputs necessary for the overall ACE activity, none of these inputs would cause that constant voltage on only one DCV as both should have 0V with stationary vehicle, the DCVs have common 5V positive...

If it was not made some mistake with that bypass and the wiring is intact the only problem can be the ECU in this case

Hi. Yes, seems like a wiring issue on the DCV's circuit but to confirm that you need a compatible diagnostic tool cos that "parts darts" game you played by replacing parts randomly is ineffective.. if you know how to work based on the diagrams you have them all HERE and the connector views HERE...

I didnt find specific D2 connector picture but the principle is the same on all as when the plugs to airbags are disconnected the pins to be shorted to protect from accidental deployment if you see what i mean

Actually i better recommend THIS cos it can be plugged directly into the connector as there might be a shorting pin in it and the resistor's wire terminals seem a bit weak for that

You can unplug and connect one of THESE into the airbag's connector(C0257) toward the ECU to pass MOT then you can investigate further

Hi. What do you mean by that: Read the codes and that's it? if yes you didnt run a diagnostic at all, you just checked for codes. What about live inputs fuelling recorded data? that's the way to diagnose such thing, did you check at least the live injector balances and all sensor readings at...

Hi, that code should not be displayed just like that, seems like a glitch, nanocom must show the full code description cos there are more versions of it(see attachments, that's only one example of code but the format should be like that), anyway check the ECU red plug to not have oil cos it acts...

That plug has two wires as it's the power supply for the pump, one should be live the other earth so measure across the two pins immediately after the ignition was turned on

There is a huge variety of them some reputable brands too, see HERE, it's a lottery these days, i bought a Stark to have it within reach in case of failure on mine based on my own experience with stark pumps for my Hyundai and Opel which are working great but i dont know yet how it works on the...

You'll have to see if the pump gets power and if it does means it's dead which is the most likely scenario, first check in C0376/0390(attached) from here the circuit goes to the pump... if no power we'll speak then but if you have power prepare a spare pump cos not very likely that the wires...

Hi. Charge the battery to full and try then, the fact that it's cranking doesnt mean it's enough power for the ECU too, if the voltage drops below 10.5V it will not start but will happily crank ... also check the drive belt while cranking cos it seems you lost the PAS and alternator too.

At the tail door splice into the pink/purple - pink/grey and try both polarity feeds if no joy try across pink/purple -pink/red

Being stuck superlocked you must be able to unlock the doors first with nanocom then you can disable the superlock but if the superlock motors don't respond to nanocom's body-security outputs nor to the trick with the wires then it's a brutal locksmith job to open the doors and replace all the...