Not had chance to sort it yet, had a weekend away planned and back to work today so will have to wait till thurs/fri when I'm off, it does it with both fobs and if I use the key, once locked it stays locked, it's only when unlocked it plays up ( but not always ) thers no pattern to it though so...

Not any deep stuff, box has stayed dry, was thinking it might be a dry joint or something in the box though?

Today my Central locking has thrown a wobbly, open with fob and it keeps locking unlocking at random, if doors closed it stays locked, if door open it keeps open/locked action for a while then stops for a bit then does it again then stops, no pattern to it, has anyone else had this problem...

I use the adrenalin with 6 degree correction, no problems and used hard, can't comment on if better than any others as not used the others, I would think they are all much the same in strength, I went for the adrenalin as they are a round design so same strength in all directional forces

Early D1's had a larger pulley on the alternator and later models and a smaller one so at any given revs the smaller ones spin faster, given that the tacho reads off the alternator this can give different readings if the wrong one for the year is fitted, found this out on one of mine, might...

Key barrel can be changed easy enough, remote locking would be ok untill one day it doesn't work and you need to use the key

They are the same, breakers or fleebay I would say your best bet ( Morris marina had the same handles lol )

Could be the diesel pre heater, exhausts front near side wheel arch? Someone should be along soon with better knowledge of your motor though

I can see your plan Sam, keep lift low and allow more room for upward travel by tubbing, the only issue I can't see you getting round is you'll end up having no steering lock with wide tyres? You'll end up with a 'shuffle bug' on tight corners, or am I missing something

Nice one Paul, to do that I'd have to get some 1" blocks as to keep the hight right, was wondering if the extra travel on springs would be better?, can get some from M&M but just thought I'd ask on here first, if I fit a wkd kit thought it might be better to have the longer springs thinking it...

Thanks for that advise but there's a slight issue that 1. I have to take tools to work with me and 2. I'm disabled in the fact I can't walk very far due to a motorcycle accident in 1989 Being a mechanic I realise the need to warm engine and my engine runs for 20 mins every day to work even...

Hi at the moment I'm running 2" blocks and +2" HD springs on a Disco 1, I've got all the right gear to go with the lift e.g castor correction arms and wide angle props, no anti roll bars fitted +5 shocks ect. Question is will I get a better result with 3" springs and 1" blocks? I'm also...

Think you'll find it's 100km rule these days, if it's for personal use no need for tacho, if used for own business no cpc required, if for hire or reward and over 3500kg you'll need a cpc cert aswell, not sure on 'o' licence rules though but think it comes under the hire or reward bit

Modded the vid to include forward camera, had it set on hd and was a mistake, also would have had been better on outside of window, bit of a learning curve at the moment lol http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiX3tVaODPc

Notice how I edited out my numerous attempts at that climb and left in your attempts lol the power of editing :lol:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obxfYEzPPy4 A quick vid I did, plenty more to edit but I'm new to this so might take some time lol

A couple of photo's

Yes that was my first one 5 door ES but now changed to commercial but similar paint job and all the bits moved over

That'll be me then :lol:

No docs needed John, just cash lol